BMPCC + Panasonic Lumix G-Vario 100-300mm f4-f5.6 ?

Hi,

I'm a BMPCC user and I'm in the market for a super telephoto zoom with IS (for handheld use).

At the moment I'm looking into the Panasonic Lumix G-Vario 100-300mm f4-f5.6.

However I'm not sure how the quality stacks up against the Vario 12-35mm f2.8 that I also own.

I own a 7D with a Canon 100-400mm L f4.0-5.6 and I'm trying to replicate the stills I shoot on video with the BMPCC.

Does anyone have experience with the Lumix G-Vario 100-300mm?

Cheers!
K.

You'll have very little success shooting 300mm on the BMCC handheld even with IS.

It's equivalent to shooting 864mm on the 5D.

I have the 45-200mm. Even with IS shots at 200mm are shaky.

The 45-200 is a bit soft wide open but sharpens up once stopped down a few stops. Not as good as the 12-35 f2.8. I'm guessing the 100-300 is similar.

Owning both Lumix 12-35 and 35-100, in my experience handheld shooting goes surprisingly well, even at 100mm. The IS does an excellent job here.
I wouldn't expect too much from 300mm though, since at 100mm it's not that easy.

I use that lens commonly on the Pocket for outside small animal subjects at a distance but only locked down on tripod.
It is easily nudged by breezes/wind is not fully covered by IS at full length and the tiny amount of wobbling significantly affects the image; handheld footage has been of minimal quality.

I don't remember the firmware # I have (several back) but when I last updated it it sometimes took an extra trigger-push of the locking button on the mount to 'remind' the camera that it's there for iris focus etc. Am planning to upgrade soon maybe it's better (?).

Auto focus is a little slow and it is worse when it's not bright; the AF hunts a lot but it is really the only M43 lens I use regularly so don't have much comparison.
I am reasonably happy with image quality for the price.

I use the Panasonic 100-300 on Micro 4/3 cameras, and its hand-held performance is marginal at 300 mm even with IS (both the built-in IS and the camera sensor-shift of the Olympus E-M1 and E-M5). I should not expect it does any better on Blackmagic.

Once mounted on a heavy tripod with well-dampened head, optical quality is barely OK for the price, nothing more. It shows its limits especially at 300 mm.

If you can hold out a few months, I would suggest you wait for the coming Olympus 300 mm f/4 prime, which is supposed to be optically excellent (but has no built-in IS).

The Olympus 4/3 (not Micro 4/3) 50-200 mm f/2.8-3.5 SWD with 4/3 to Micro 4/3 adapter on the Olympus E-M1 it is optically far better than the Panasonic 100-300, and AF very fast. AF is instead too slow to be usable on the other Olympus and Panasonic cameras that don't have phase-detect AF in the sensor, like the E-M5. I assume that MF operation is the only option on Blackmagic cameras. With the dedicated 4/3 1.4x teleconverter, the 50-200 is still optically better than my Panasonic 100-300.

Thanks for your reply's guys.

I'm actually looking to get a 600mm full frame equivalent. So the 100mm f2.8 zoom is not long enough but the 175mm might be.

Does anyone have any experience with the 140, 150 or 175mm zoom lenses?

Since the 300mm seems to fall apart at it's longest end and since I'm never going to use it at that length these lenses might be more interesting.

Thanks!
K.

Karel I'm in the market for similar type lens.
I'm thinking Metabones EF Speedbooster with Tamron or Sigma IS lens.

Sigma 18-300mm
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1 ... macro.html
Tamron 16-300
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1 ... di_ii.html

With Metabones EF Speedbooster they'd have FOV full frame equivalent of roughly 525mm.
I've heard stabilization might be better than Panasonic lenses. They'll eat batteries quickly but likely the shots will be short. They're light enough for hand held on the short side and I'm wondering if stabilization handles a bit better on the long side against typical tripod vibration.

Speaking just from personal experience, I have an Olympus 40-150mm MFT and I wouldn't go beyond 95mm (~273mm FF) on its widest opening which I think is f/5.6 on the BMPCC handheld. That's when it gets to be shaky and soft on wide. On a tripod, it's good at 150mm (~432mm FF) f/16. You'll need a reasonable amount of daylight.

I recently got a Canon V6x17 17-102mm f/2.0 TV lens (C-Mount) that I had someone shim it so that it will be parfocal. Very nice lens and since it is a for Super 16 1" sensor size, it does not vignette on the BMPCC. This one I can shoot long with a shoulder mount rig and FF. It is a charm even at 102mm. I used a VND with it during daylight.

The Olympus 40-150 isn't stabilized at all so it wouldn't be under consideration. Unless you're talking about shoulder mount use as you do for the c-mount lens you mention.

The Olympus 40-150 isn't stabilized at all so it wouldn't be under consideration. Unless you're talking about shoulder mount use as you do for the c-mount lens you mention.

That's right Craig, it's not stabilize. I was however able to shoot standing still (not run-n-gun) at 90mm with little noticeable shake. With a tripod, it was fine. I think you're right it will be better using a shoulder mount but never tried it with the Olympus lens.

My point is that at some long focal length, I think stability will be noticeable even with an IS lens, depending on the kind of lens used.

I am reviving this post to ask about the 35mm-100m version of the lens. Did anybody use it without tripod and can give me some tips or advice? I'm thinking about using it together with my BMPCC in a trip to Paris.

I am reviving this post to ask about the 35mm-100m version of the lens. Did anybody use it without tripod and can give me some tips or advice? I'm thinking about using it together with my BMPCC in a trip to Paris.

I did. As matter of fact I rarely use tripods because I think they make the image ‘dead’. On some purposes that’s exactly what’s needed but many times I choose a more vivid approach.

At 35mm there’s no problem but even at 100mm it’s possible to remain a steady image. Try to lean against a wall, pole or anything stable. Don’t hold your breath but keep breathing relaxed. The image will move slowly then, but that’s not annoying to watch.

Good luck!