V-mount Battery Plate for Ursa Mini Design Flaw

I recently came across a little bit of a problem with my battery plate. When I first got my Ursa Mini 4K I bought a Juicebox battery that came with the battery plate. Until now, I haven't had to use the DTap on it. I just realized that the SDI Out on the back of the camera completely blocks the DTap. I did some research on other battery plates and noticed that most of them have the DTap in the same general location, making it useless.

I went ahead and ordered the Blackmagic battery plate to get around this issue. Quite annoying as I plan on powering the new monitor I purchased via the DTap.


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KR, the BMD battery plate has regulated 12Vdc if that helps.


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Thanks, Rick! That's the one I bought to replace my current one. I know my battery itself has a DTap but I don't really trust it.


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On a minor tangent, has anyone had problems with the BMD V mount battery plate where the battery slips off?

When using the camera handheld with the side grip, I often rest the battery on my belly to stabilise it to get a lower angle shot. Once, the battery just came right off during a shot. After a bit of investigation, I've noticed it doesn't take much effort for the battery to come off without having to disengage the lock.

Do I have a faulty plate or is it just how the cookie crumbles?

Am I the only person who got the BMD V-Mount Battery Plate with the D-Tap on the same side as the LCD screen? That's where mine is located. And I got the BMD V-Mount Battery Plate. Or is this a Third Party V-Mount Battery Plate issue?

It's not only you, i have a swiftonix plate as well as the BM PLATE. Both will do the same thing when pressure is applied under the battery...yes it will come off. It happens to me sometimes, to much force from under the battery will force it off the plate without having to press the release on the plate . I don't think it's a design flaw, but we do need to be careful.

Thanks Donnell. Did you get a replacement/RMA? or just live with it?

Tim - I think KR was initially referring to the Juicebox plate he bought. My D-tap is on the LCD side too.

Thanks Donnell. Did you get a replacement/RMA? or just live with it?

Tim - I think KR was initially referring to the Juicebox plate he bought. My D-tap is on the LCD side too.

I've learned to live with it.. what I do now is kneel and put the camera over my leg with the battery and plate slightly off my leg. Then I change the settings and throw the camera back on my shoulder. No need for an Rma. Since I have a swiftronix plate that does the same thing. It's Just the nature of the plates.

Am I the only person who got the BMD V-Mount Battery Plate with the D-Tap on the same side as the LCD screen? That's where mine is located. And I got the BMD V-Mount Battery Plate. Or is this a Third Party V-Mount Battery Plate issue?

No, it is the third party bsttery plates that have the DTap, where it is on most OEM plates. BM moved the DTap to the left side. My Anton Bauer OEM Plates has the DTsp on the top right corner.
Cheers

My BMD plate had the issue where the batteries won't lock into place. A slight upward push is all it takes to knock it off the mount. I called Juicebox and asked about their design flaw where the d-tap is on the upper right and interferes with the sdi. They said they've since redesigned their plates and sent me a new one for free that had the DTap on the lower left, LCD side. I sent the BMD plate back because of the battery slippage.


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That was good of Juicebox to replace it for free. Does the battery come off just as easily as the BM one?

I am about to put in an order for a DBOX which allows you to customize the 6 slots with whatever you want. I assume that would probably solve the problem with the DTAP location, as you can relocate the DTAP port to the top or side of the DBOX.

As for the battery coming off.. I read that some batteries come with cheaper plastic mounts, and replacing them with better quality metal mounts often solves the problem of the battery coming off. I would also hope that when they are locked they should not come off at all unless you release it. What is the point of a lock if it doesnt actually lock it in?

Justin, instead of a custom DBox based on the Basic box kit, if you can live with 2-DTap, 2- 2-pin Lemo and an HDMI out, get the ready configured DBox, it is only $30 more than the basic box, which will need 4 to 5 output connectors added at $65 each! So you are getting the extra three connections free!
Cheers

Denny, I know we are crossing wires on different threads... you said exactly what I told my DBOX rep that was working with me to figure out my needs. Originally the suggestion was a custom box where I configure it with 2 plugs, blanks, and the VMount option.. but that turned out to be a couple hundred more than the complete setup which also has the male Vmount plate on the other side. It is interesting to me that they offer complete setups for a fair chunk less than the same parts bought separately. I mean.. usually you may see a little savings.. but this is a good 30% or so less.. and you get more with it too! The one I opted for was $550, VMount setup.

Yes, the "whole" is less than the sum of its parts!
Cheers