light meter recommendations.
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 5:35 pm
I have never used a light meter for video, but I would like to start. Any tips or recommendations for finding a good reasonably priced meter for my BMCC?
brad12d3 wrote:I have never used a light meter for video, but I would like to start. Any tips or recommendations for finding a good reasonably priced meter for my BMCC?
TZuck wrote:if you've never used a light meter for video before, you certainly don't need to start now that you have a BMCC.
AdrianSierkowski wrote:Yep, that's essentially the same one I have.
It'll take a minute or two to figure out the abacus type dials on the bottom; but you'll be fine and probably have that meter for a good long many years.
Tamerlin wrote:Pick up a copy of Bruce Barnbaum's "The Art of Photography" and read it. Bruce Barnbaum knows the Zone system and he explains it well.
That said, 18% grey would equate to the middle of the camera's exposure range, and we know it has a range of 13 stops. That means six zones brighter than 18% grey, and six zones darker.
brad12d3 wrote:Will do. Thanks for the info. I have only briefly read about the zone system and was interested in learning more. I will check out the book.
AdrianSierkowski wrote:
That's what I do for each new camera system and in truth I've never found one which is exactly even on both sides. Most digital cameras (REC) have more room in the shadow (toe) whereas neg film is more generous in the highlights (shoulder).
John Brawley wrote:I use a light meter for measuring absolute light levels (in Fc) like frank is suggesting.
I don't use it to *tell* me the average exposure. Mostly you don't want an 18% grey card to be grey. You want it darker or lighter depending on what you're trying to do photographically.
I'm "walking the set" and seeing what the exposure RANGE is in the set. This is two stops hotter than that, which is three stops hotter than that over there. Ratios.
Then I decide an exposure based on what I want to see and not see, determined by what I've lit and not lit for, flagged and not flagged for.
Add into that the localised knowledge of the camera. In the case the BMCC wants you to ETTR. A lot of other cameras respond better when you protect the highlights more.
See the steps there ? It's not just punch the ISO and hold up the meter then set the aperture. Theres so much more to it.
I'm not so sure the much deified zone system is that useful for drama. Zone is great when you want every bit of detail from highlights and shadows. But we don't always want all that.
jb
it's very nice to be able to say to a gaffer, for example, knock down that lamp shade 2 stops, or to a 1AC Grab me an NDIR 1.2 without having to dick around with the camera like a fool.
John Brawley wrote:I'm not so sure the much deified zone system is that useful for drama. Zone is great when you want every bit of detail from highlights and shadows. But we don't always want all that.
Tamerlin wrote:John Brawley wrote:I'm not so sure the much deified zone system is that useful for drama. Zone is great when you want every bit of detail from highlights and shadows. But we don't always want all that.
That's bogus. The zone system is about getting what you want, not getting what Ansel Adams did. The point is that the zone system allows you a simple and systematic way of learning to place for lack of a better term the highlights and shadows and mids where you want them so that when you post-process them, you will get what you want from the image.
John Brawley wrote:The zone system is great for maximising the detail and *visualising* your exposure. it's a tool, not a gospel. It allows the photographer to visualise exposure.
Most people I've seen using the zone system, fail to use the *visualising* part and just use it the way we were discussing earlier. Put a grey card into the scene (zone V) and meter that presto, there's your exposure. Extrapolate from there for highlights and mids etc.
It also wouldn't allow an ETTR approach, which most everybody seems to think is the right way to expose the BMCC.
It's interesting that you invoke Adams with regard to the zone system. Adams himself says he didn't invent the zone system, he only popularised it. He was also primarily a landscape photographer. An amazing landscape photographer. With an astounding and deep understanding of the underlying technology.
But like many things tech and geek, everyone assumes it's because of the ZONE system. Ansel Adams = mastery of the zone system = Take photos like Ansel Adams.
As I've said many times, there's no correct exposure. It's a choice you make.