Tokina 11-16 focus

So I never sent my camera in to get it "fixed", because I really can't afford not to have it for a month or even a couple of weeks. It really wasn't an issue because none of my lenses had infinity focus issues. However, I am really itching for a super wide lens at 2.8 and the Tokina is about the only option I see. I did try someone else's Tokina on my camera for a couple of minutes and could tell that it was barely not hitting infinity focus.

However, I got to thinking that I would using this lens mostly for indoor shots and if I needed a wide outdoor shot then I would just use my 17-55. So for those of you who used the lens on an unmodified camera, how far could you successfully focus? Would it be usable for closer indoor shots?

Also, is either the DX or the DXII version better than the other?

I'd have the flange distance adjusted. I still need to send in mine as well.

I'd have the flange distance adjusted. I still need to send in mine as well.

Any reports from anyone on how long that's taking these days? I could deal with maybe 2 weeks, but a month is out of the question at least for the time being. I just got too much coming up and I am not having focus issues with my other lenses.

But man it would be nice to get something wide and fast soon. Wish SLR Magic would have done an EF mount version of their 12mm.

So for those of you who used the lens on an unmodified camera, how far could you successfully focus? Would it be usable for closer indoor shots?

One of the first things I did was throw this lens on my camera when I got it.
Absolutely usable for close shots, why wouldn't it be? I shot indoors and outdoors with it.

Seemed to hit infinity just fine, but more importantly every other lense I've used does, so no, I wouldn't have sent the camera in even if this one lens out of a hundred different lenses didn't hit infinity.

So for those of you who used the lens on an unmodified camera, how far could you successfully focus? Would it be usable for closer indoor shots?

One of the first things I did was throw this lens on my camera when I got it.
Absolutely usable for close shots, why wouldn't it be? I shot indoors and outdoors with it.

Seemed to hit infinity just fine, but more importantly every other lense I've used does, so no, I wouldn't have sent the camera in even if this one lens out of a hundred different lenses didn't hit infinity.

Do you have a DX or DXII version?

Dx

Some of them appear to be worse than others. I have a Nikon mount version that has no issues.

The Tokina is soft wide open anyway so you would want to stop down a few stops to get to its sweet spot and if you are shooting outdoors with the need for infinity focus you would probably stop down anyway so you can get a deeper depth of field.

Closer interior stuff should give you no issues at all.

Some of them appear to be worse than others. I have a Nikon mount version that has no issues.

The Tokina is soft wide open anyway so you would want to stop down a few stops to get to its sweet spot and if you are shooting outdoors with the need for infinity focus you would probably stop down anyway so you can get a deeper depth of field.

Closer interior stuff should give you no issues at all.

So if the Tokina is soft wide open would it make more sense to go with something like the sigma 10-20 3.5? If 2.8 is soft and you have to stop down anyways then I don't see the benefit over other super wides that may be a little slower but just as sharp at their widest aperture.

Almost all lenses are not at their best wide open. They nearly always improve stopped down one or two stops.

Look at the Canon 85mm f1.2 L, its horrid wide open but stopped down to f1.4 its good, at f2 its great.

So getting an f3.5 lens means you'll probably need to stop down a little to get the best out of it.

My lens wouldn't focus beyoned 7'
I sent it in. was told 10 business days. took about 32 days and a bunch of phone calls...
but in the end it is worth it.
no more back focus issue...

Almost all lenses are not at their best wide open. They nearly always improve stopped down one or two stops.

Look at the Canon 85mm f1.2 L, its horrid wide open but stopped down to f1.4 its good, at f2 its great.

So getting an f3.5 lens means you'll probably need to stop down a little to get the best out of it.

Thanks. I am going to take my camera to the shop with me so I can test it before I purchase. Sounds like I can make it work if I can find a good copy.

I'd have the flange distance adjusted. I still need to send in mine as well.

Any reports from anyone on how long that's taking these days? I could deal with maybe 2 weeks, but a month is out of the question at least for the time being. I just got too much coming up and I am not having focus issues with my other lenses.

But man it would be nice to get something wide and fast soon. Wish SLR Magic would have done an EF mount version of their 12mm.

I just received the camera after an flange correction, took 15 days, I am going to test it tomorrow.
Do note, there may be a difference in duration depending on the location where to send the camera.

It would be nice if BMD could confirm and stick to shorter handling times, as I've already read a few complaints about the time it took the get the flange distance adjusted...

Thanks. I am going to take my camera to the shop with me so I can test it before I purchase. Sounds like I can make it work if I can find a good copy.

I just posted this in the "ef lens compatability thread" as another user was claiming his Tokina produces what he calls a "poor image".

Ive had no such misfortune with mine on the BMCC


(right click for full image)
@ 11mm, im sorry but I dont remember the exposure on this shot.
I went a little overboard on the grade to prove a point on the other thread.

I hope you find one that works on your camera, its a decent lens.

Which version do you have??

Thanks. I am going to take my camera to the shop with me so I can test it before I purchase. Sounds like I can make it work if I can find a good copy.

I just posted this in the "ef lens compatability thread" as another user was claiming his Tokina produces what he calls a "poor image".

Ive had no such misfortune with mine on the BMCC


(right click for full image)
@ 11mm, im sorry but I dont remember the exposure on this shot.
I went a little overboard on the grade to prove a point on the other thread.

I hope you find one that works on your camera, its a decent lens.

Which version do you have??

Do you have a DX or DXII version?

Dx

Duh, I read it after lol sorry. Is the DX II that much different then the regular DX. I know it got a better coating and af but anything else worth the extra money? From the looks of it yours looks perfectly fine.

They are both AF.
The DXII has "improved multicoating", dont know of any other differences, sorry man.

Yep, issues with my 11-16mm. I threw it on my BMCC and noticed it wouldn't focus at infinity. I don't know if my camera has the flange adjustment or not. So I threw it on my Canon 60D, at infinity it will only focus between 15-16mm. This is at any aperture. The only time I get it to focus is at close range say 4 feet. Mine's a dud.

Yep, issues with my 11-16mm. I threw it on my BMCC and noticed it wouldn't focus at infinity. I don't know if my camera has the flange adjustment or not. So I threw it on my Canon 60D, at infinity it will only focus between 15-16mm. This is at any aperture. The only time I get it to focus is at close range say 4 feet. Mine's a dud.

You could try adjusting it?
http://blog.christianschmeer.com/resear ... djustment/

Thanks for the link. I been having a go at this for the past hour, for others that may try this. You don't need to take the screws out just loosen them and the inner barrel will move quite easily. Did for me, seeing as mine is the EF version a moved it all the way to the left which seems to have improved it for manual. Still this lens has no clue where focus is on Auto, hunts past it, around it.. and always settles out of focus.... strange. Anyway manual is what its about for the BMCC. The other odd thing I noticed was, focus only works in live view on the 60D... huh? Its another pointer towards the problems with using off brand lenses.

Seeing as the BMCC EF mount is possibly a backwards engineered canon mount, its a matter of time before they crack the code on how to talk to all EF lenses. Some may aways be hit and miss. If the Tokina is hit and miss on my Canon camera, what chance does it have on the BMCC. I guess all it has to do is iris.

Will try the BMCC now and see if there's an improvement.

hallelujah... thats much better.

There's just one more thing I've noticed and its to do with colour representation on the LCD.

I have it set to record Prores - Film and put the display into Video and the colours are way off. Red looks Orange! I'd expect video to have more saturation but the WB is doing some crazy ****.

Whats going on there?

There's just one more thing I've noticed and its to do with colour representation on the LCD.

I have it set to record Prores - Film and put the display into Video and the colours are way off. Red looks Orange! I'd expect video to have more saturation but the WB is doing some crazy ****.

Whats going on there?

The LCD is not great for judging colour. I'd also suggest turning the brightness down. Colour tends to be better then.

There's just one more thing I've noticed and its to do with colour representation on the LCD.

I have it set to record Prores - Film and put the display into Video and the colours are way off. Red looks Orange! I'd expect video to have more saturation but the WB is doing some crazy ****.

Whats going on there?

The LCD is not great for judging colour. I'd also suggest turning the brightness down. Colour tends to be better then.

Thanks Adam, are you saying the recorded colour is better in both ProRes & Raw?
How do you go about WB on location? Do you record a 18% grey card and/or are you using scopes?

Ok, on second thoughts maybe not so good. While my Tokina appears to be focussing better or is it, the DOF plane is not right. It appears to be going in reverse ?? Still back focussing?

I'm done with it, I like things to work out of the box I don't have time for fixing lenses... lol

BMCC please fix the Canon 10-22 iris.....soon!

There's just one more thing I've noticed and its to do with colour representation on the LCD.

I have it set to record Prores - Film and put the display into Video and the colours are way off. Red looks Orange! I'd expect video to have more saturation but the WB is doing some crazy ****.

Whats going on there?

The LCD is not great for judging colour. I'd also suggest turning the brightness down. Colour tends to be better then.

Thanks Adam, are you saying the recorded colour is better in both ProRes & Raw?
How do you go about WB on location? Do you record a 18% grey card and/or are you using scopes?

I don't shoot in Video mode, tho I have shot some tests.

Shooting in film mode produces a very flat Log image that needs grading in post. This can be done with ease in Resolve or in your NLE.

White balance settings in camera are limited to the presets so I normally choose the one closest to the light conditions. 5600k for daylight, 6500/7500k for overcast, etc. I then tweak the white balance if needed in post.

This Wiki may be helpful for starters.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature

painintheneck wrote
This Wiki may be helpful for starters.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature

Yea Buddy, you surely earned your name. The wiki may be for starters indeed.

There's just one more thing I've noticed and its to do with colour representation on the LCD.

I have it set to record Prores - Film and put the display into Video and the colours are way off. Red looks Orange! I'd expect video to have more saturation but the WB is doing some crazy ****.

Whats going on there?

Hi Paul,

I've gotten in touch with the BlackMagic peeps.

The post below:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6453&p=63632#p63632

Hope it helps.

please between

tokina 11-16
and
Tokina 17-35mm F/4 AT-X Pro FX Lens for Canon EOS Digital SLR Cameras

which one is best for indoor shooting
for mft version of bmcc

If you're shooting in big indoor spaces with lots of light, get the Tokina 17-35mm F/4 -
and if you're shooting in flats or other small indoor places and don't have that much lighting available for what reasons ever, get the Tokina 11-16/2.8

Ive decided to snatch one of these up to use the metabones adapter with it. Seems like if you take 11mm *0.71 then multiply that result by 2.88 (for the pocket rocket) you get somewhere close to 22.5mm which isnt too mad. Also it should come in at around F2...pretty sweet if you can focus to infinity

I sent my camera off for the flange adjustment. It took about three weeks. When it got back, I popped my Tokina 11-16mm on it and... it still couldn't focus at infinity. Maybe I just got unlucky with my lens. Stopping down does help. And focuses well around 13-14mm.

You could try adjusting it?
http://blog.christianschmeer.com/resear ... djustment/

Christian,

thank you so much! I did this on a Canon mount (movement to the left rather than to the right) and it seems to work perfectly. Previously I didn't reach infinity focus, now the lens focuses to infinity.

I had a very hard time finding a wide, fast lens that would accept filters. Your fix really rocks.

Cheers,
Janne