Yes, another question about the new BMPCC

When the time comes to order it, what else would you suggest I purchase?
I’ve never owned Black Magic products.

I know I’m going to need a lense mount adapter. I have Rokinon 16 and 35mm lenses for my Canon. Just tooling around google I kept seeing the metabones adapter for EF. Is this the suggested adapter for the camera? Are there others? Is this “speedbooster” deal exclusively for lenses with AF? Because, aside from my Canon kit lenses, I won’t be using AF or anything like that.

My other question is about batteries. Which batteries does this camera use, and could somebody recommend good ones for spare?

Thanks

You'll find info on batteries and other tech specs here: https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/produc ... s/W-CIN-12

I haven't been following the discussion on lenses and adaptors, but if you look in the Cinematography section of this forum you'll find a few posts discussing lenses for the new BMPCC 4K. Some of the limitations of the original Pocket camera don't apply to the new BMPCC 4K, since it has a larger sensor. You will obviously need a MFT adaptor for your lenses; whether you also need a speed booster is perhaps more debatable, but others can chime in on that.

You'll find info on batteries and other tech specs here: https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/produc ... s/W-CIN-12

I haven't been following the discussion on lenses and adaptors, but if you look in the Cinematography section of this forum you'll find a few posts discussing lenses for the new BMPCC 4K. Some of the limitations of the original Pocket camera don't apply to the new BMPCC 4K, since it has a larger sensor. You will obviously need a MFT adaptor for your lenses; whether you also need a speed booster is perhaps more debatable, but others can chime in on that.

Ok.

So there are in fact multiple regular ol’ adapters?
After a quick search I only saw the metabones speedbooster thing.

The Metabones Speed Booster XL or Ultra will work, if yiu want additional angle of view from your lenses.
That said, the. Etsbones regular EF/MFT Dump adapter or a similar one would physically mount your lens to the MFT mount, no optical expansion of the field of view. Since your lenses are manual, you do not need the expensive EF Auto lens support found in the MFT/EF XL and Ultra Speed Boosters.
Cheers

Thanks. Forgive my ignorance. But all the names and brands are completely new to me. I have no idea where to begin or how to compare the quality. I don’t want garbage, but I don’t need some high speed stuff that’s going to break the bank. The camera purchase itself is already a pretty big deal for me.

I guess I’m really just looking for something to mount the lens...as you mentioned. Not sure what exactly an expanded field of view would look like. I figured that was just based on the focal length of the lens.

I’m new.

OK, an expanded field of view would be taking a 50mm lens and getting the same image on the BM Pocket Camera 4K as yiu would get with a 35mm lens on your full frame 135mm film or DSLR csmera would have, and I also increases the light to the sensor by 1.5 stops, so a f/2.8 setting will give thr same light as I f/1.0 lens setting. The Uktra increases the field of view by 0.71, so 50mm x 0,71 = 35mm AOV. It does not change the focal,length of the lens, just widens the area covered in the csmera sensor, kind of the opposite of what a tele-Converter with does.

The MFT sensor is 1.8 Tim’s smaller than a 135mm film size, the Rok lenses you have were designed for. You have a nice wide angle in the 16mm and thr 35mm will be a long lens on the new Pocket camera, a 25mm would be the Normal angle of view lens (45-degree coverage), the 35mm is normal lens on S35, and a 50mm lens is normal on a 135mm camera, if this helps.

I would just get the non Speed Booster MFT/EF (dumb, no electronic control) Metabones adapter or something similar to start with, wait until yiu get the camera era, and see what else becomes available for it after the camera is released.
Cheers

OK, an expanded field of view would be taking a 50mm lens and getting the same image on the BM Pocket Camera 4K as yiu would get with a 35mm lens on your full frame 135mm film or DSLR csmera would have, and I also increases the light to the sensor by 1.5 stops, so a f/2.8 setting will give thr same light as I f/1.0 lens setting. The Uktra increases the field of view by 0.71, so 50mm x 0,71 = 35mm AOV. It does not change the focal,length of the lens, just widens the area covered in the csmera sensor, kind of the opposite of what a tele-Converter with does.

The MFT sensor is 1.8 Tim’s smaller than a 135mm film size, the Rok lenses you have were designed for. You have a nice wide angle in the 16mm and thr 35mm will be a long lens on the new Pocket camera, a 25mm would be the Normal angle of view lens (45-degree coverage), the 35mm is normal lens on S35, and a 50mm lens is normal on a 135mm camera, if this helps.

I would just get the non Speed Booster MFT/EF (dumb, no electronic control) Metabones adapter or something similar to start with, wait until yiu get the camera era, and see what else becomes available for it after the camera is released.
Cheers

Awesome. Thanks again man.

I’ll be looking into a regular, “dumb” mount.

If you could entertain just one more question...any particular brand?
I think I saw a couple ranging from like 50 bucks to a couple hundred. I think.

Do not go with cheap, I would get either a Metabones or Novoflex Canon EF Lens to Micro Four Thirds Camera Adapter, both are well made and meet the exact FFD tolerances. Cheap adapters often times are not set to the correct FFD, poorly made and do not hold up, and are difficult to use.
Cheers

Do not go with cheap, I would get either a Metabones or Novoflex Canon EF Lens to Micro Four Thirds Camera Adapter, both are well made and meet the exact FFD tolerances. Cheap adapters often times are not set to the correct FFD, poorly made and do not hold up, and are difficult to use.
Cheers

Thanks!

I’m here again. I’ve been looking for lense adapters for my Rokinon EF lenses to mount to the MFT body.

As I said earlier I don’t really “need” an adapter that supports electronic communications. But that’s all I’m seeing when I search. No “dumb” adapters that I can see.

This is one
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/ ... _BwE&smp=y

And I found one Novoflex adapter (suggested in previous posts)....no real reviews or anything though.

Justin, Novoflex is a German brand and the adapters are made in Germany. I got a Novoflex Nikon to EF Adapter and it is really of great quality and made to tight tolerances. Well worth its price.
I'll order another Novoflex EF to MFT for my Pocket 4k as soon as I get the camera.

Robert is spot on. The Novoflex is the ony quality dumb EF/MFT adapter that I know of, $279 at B&H. Metsbones discontinued theirs when they worked out the electronic smart adapter, as most EF lenses require camera communication to set the iris. The new Metsbones and the slightly less expensive Novoflex are both good choices. If yiu do not need the “smart” bit, then go with the Novoflex.

Reviews of the Novoflex adapters were five or more years ago, so hard to find, but I have the Novoflex Nikon F to MFT adapter, which was around $350 five years back, I paid $250:for a slightly used one then. My experience is it is well made, and easy to use. The F mount version has a cam lever to set the iris mechanism on the lens, adding to its cost. But it works brilliantly, no issues and it is not heavy or bulky, like some adapters. Another example of fine German engineering and quality.
Cheers

Well I guess that’s good enough for me. I added the novoflex to my wish list on B&H.

If they release the camera anytime this century, I’ll be dropping that order as well.

You guys wouldn’t happen to know of a good SSD I could use to record with, would you?

I guess the camera has a USB-C port to which you can connect the SSD and record straight to that...instead of constantly changing cards. I’ve personally never recorded like this but it sounds like a cool idea.

So I just plug it into the camera, record, unplug, plug into my MacBook and dump? It’s that easy?

You guys wouldn’t happen to know of a good SSD I could use to record with, would you?

Joakley, in preparation for the (eventual) arrival of the BMPCC 4K, I assembled my own SSD. It was super easy and cost effective. I used an mSATA to USB 3.1 Gen2 10GBPS SSD Enclosure with USB C with a Samsung 860 EVO mSATA SSD. Speed tests for the drive yielded the following results:

DiskTest

DiskSpeedTest.png (581.97 KiB) Viewed 3405 times

^Source: Me

In comparison, from the URSA Mini Pro, see rates below:

Screen Shot 2018-09-08 at 7.46.52 PM.png (116.91 KiB) Viewed 3405 times

^Source: VideoExpert.eu

Hope this helps.

-Andres

PS: for 4K DCI @60fps see below:



and it’s data rate...

Joakley, BM was suggesting using a small USB-C 3.1 Drive, like a Samsung T5 Portable SSD. Look one up, and you will see it is not a standard SSD.
Cheers

I haven’t been able to find the write speed of the Samsung T5 but if you want large capacity, that may be the one to get up to 2TB.

I’m more concerned about write speed and suitability for cinema use requiring continuos high speed recording. Wise will be showing their Portable SSD that records video up to 520MB/s. That I like. I think the maximum size may be 512GB, but I think I can manage with that.


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Joakley, BM was suggesting using a small USB-C 3.1 Drive, like a Samsung T5 Portable SSD. Look one up, and you will see it is not a standard SSD.
Cheers

It is a standard SSD. It's just uses an mSATA form factor instead of the more common 2.5" form factor.

Wait until you see the Wise Card that looks like a stick of chewing gum.


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Wait until you see the Wise Card that looks like a stick of chewing gum.

Rick,
My homemade SSD solution is just about a tad shorter than the one Wise will be releasing. However, they do advertise sustained write speeds of >500 MB/s. Kudos as this should make it really close to 4K DCI 60fps data throughput.



-Andres

Joakley, BM was suggesting using a small USB-C 3.1 Drive, like a Samsung T5 Portable SSD. Look one up, and you will see it is not a standard SSD.
Cheers

It is a standard SSD. It's just uses an mSATA form factor instead of the more common 2.5" form factor.

Thanks, I know, it is the smaller mSATA configuration I was referring to, easier to use, and normally has a faster data rate than conventional 2.5-inch SSDs, when used with USB3 interface. I use one with my PixE, which Videdo Devices calls a Speed Drive, looks like an oversized thumb drive.
Cheers

Andres, when Wise touts 4K 60p, they might mean UHD rather than DCI 4K 60p2160. I hope we shall have this clarified at IBC2018. Nonetheless to my mind it is better that Wise documents their support of video recording and puts the “up to 520MB/s” Write stake in the ground. The Samsung T5 may be just as good or better but there’s no Write stake in the ground from them.

I dislike the use of 4K implying 4096 since (a K has always meant 1024 throughout the history of modern computing until) the USA started to pretend officially the absurdity that 720p was HD (solely because their major networks were unwilling at that time to upgrade their infrastructure as the rest of the world had done) and 1080p was “Full HD” so now 99% of the televisions sold in the world as 4K are 3840x2160. Unless a vendor states DCI 4K, I treat it as meaning UHD.


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Most consumer references to 4ak is UHD, including broadcasting and TV monitors. Rick, if 720p is not HD, what is it, it’s not SD either? Are not 720p59.94 and 1080i59.94 the same bandwidth and both were considered HD, 720p, and is what Digital Tape HDV used.
Cheers

No, DVD was SD, 480p in NTSC or 576 in PAL.
In blind tests viewers preferred 720p to 1080i (both compressed to the same data rate) and it was made the standard for German public TV. Of course 1080p looks better, but needs more bandwidth. And satellite bandwidth is expensive!

My apologies to my friends in the USA, I thought they were alone in officially designating 720p as HD and 1080p as full HD. I was not aware that Germany also standardized on 720p about that time. So I won’t rant about that anymore.

Still wish 4K TVs were called UHD, but I know that’s not going to change.

Now what do they call 8K television? Is it QHD? I forget. QUHD? I know it’s not QLED! The salesman told me QLED is better than OLED because OLED will suffer from burn-in. But I liked the LG OLED!


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Uli, I meant the early Tape based HDV which was 720p59.94, not DVD disks which as you pointed out are SD, and in the US, broadcast standard includes both 720p59.94 and 1080i59.94, which use the same bandwidth, so transmission requirements are similar.
Cheers

Any idea what I could use for an external power source?

I see it has a 12v port (2 pin). Is there a good quality battery I could use to plug into and power this thing?

Ideally you want something that is a regulated 12V source.

I’ll be using my Cinegears 270Wh with the D-tap to 2-pin cable that BMD sells. Typically Cine camera batteries (V-mount or Anton Bauer Gold Mount) have a 12V D-tap connection on the battery.


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We wound up with two 'HD' standards because a lot of people were upset that the new 1080 standard was still going to be interlaced. Computers at the time lacked descent deinterlacing ability. Supporters of progressive video referenced the Kell effect that reduced apparent resolution for interlaced video. Since the US channel bandwidth wouldn't support 1080p, 720p was a compromise.

Individual networks had to choose one of the two standards. ABC and Fox went with 720p, while PBS, NBC and CBS went with 1080i. When the flat panels became popular, they had good deinterlacing and 720p emerged as the weaker standard.

We're fortunate that ATSC 3.0 has no interlaced version of UHD.

David

Now what do they call 8K television?

It's simple and confusing at the same time. 720p and 1080p are both HD. Likewise, consumer 4K and consumer 8K are both UHD. HD/UHD does not imply one specific resolution, but several.

Thanks for that detail about the HD options used in the US. Thankfully 4K/UHD are better understood in spite of the terms being used interchangeably for most broadcast purposes around the world. At least there are more people that understand the terms can refer to different specs when you consider non-broadcast purposes.


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It was more than US channel bandwidth wouldn't support 1080p, HDMI 1.X standard, and the then current SD SDI standard at the time didn’t support 1080p bandwidth either. But 720p and 1080i would work with theses lower bandwidth transmission devices. Having 1080p29.97 is nice, but not much due if you can not display it, or output it from the camera, or playback device.
Cheers

Merci, Denny.


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Ideally you want something that is a regulated 12V source.

I’ll be using my Cinegears 270Wh with the D-tap to 2-pin cable that BMD sells. Typically Cine camera batteries (V-mount or Anton Bauer Gold Mount) have a 12V D-tap connection on the battery.


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I found this on B&H...so it’s a battery w/mount. And a dummy battery.

Would this be a wise purchase?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/ ... _form.html

I believe the 12VDC power input on the side of the camera will take a DTap from a regular camera battery, 14-16.5 VDC, but I have sent an inquiry to BM Support asking what the actual power range on this input is.

As for using a dummy battery, I feel this is an awkward and unnecessary way to power the camera, unless you want to use something like the Atomos Power station, or another Sony NP battery plate, thstmyiu may already have. But buying a special camera battery with a dummy connection does not seem like a good way to go. It would help Joakley if youmoisted the link to the battery kit you are considering.
Cheers

I believe the 12VDC power input on the side of the camera will take a DTap from a regular camera battery, 14-16.5 VDC, but I have sent an inquiry to BM Support asking what the actual power range on this input is.

As for using a dummy battery, I feel this is an awkward and unnecessary way to power the camera, unless you want to use something like the Atomos Power station, or another Sony NP battery plate, thstmyiu may already have. But buying a special camera battery with a dummy connection does not seem like a good way to go. It would help Joakley if youmoisted the link to the battery kit you are considering.
Cheers

Yeah my bad. I forgot to paste the link. I just added it to my post. And using a dummy battery does seem kinda weird.

From the camera specs, power is 12-20VDC.


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Just got mine delivered! Wow. That screen though...

Thanks Rick, thought as much. Just received a confirmation email from BM Tech Support, I Lut voltage rating Ge is as a Rick stated, 12-20VDC, so a V mount or AB Gold Mount battery DTap connection will work, without needing a regulated 12VDC source.
Cheers

Thanks Rick, thought as much. Just received a confirmation email from BM Tech Support, I Lut voltage rating Ge is as a Rick stated, 12-20VDC, so a V mount or AB Gold Mount battery DTap connection will work, without needing a regulated 12VDC source.
Cheers

Ok, I won’t BS you guys. I don’t really understand what this means.
12-20 volts without overloading vice straight up 12v power?

So any power source with 12-20v output?

So any power source with 12-20v output?

Correct. It is the range of voltages that it accepts.

Yes, and this covers any 14.5 VDC professional camera battery, which are 12-17.5 or 18 VDC fully charged. As a battery is used, the voltage drops from it high end to 12VDC then shuts down at less than 11.5 VDC.

Correct, Denny. My battery is rated 12-16.8VDC, but I’ve run it just under 12VDC briefly on the Mini 4.6K successfully (at the end of one shoot).


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