BMMCC 14.8V Battery Module by RADIOPROEKTOR

I have some amount of chargers in stock again.
By the way, you can use this charger to power BMMCC camera or any other device that can support 16.8v voltage input.

Dmitry, your Battery Kit for the Micro camera arrived today, looks very good, well made and mounts to the back of the Micro camera nicely with some play, but still locks in. Looking forward to the machined LP E6 connector plate, when you get some made up.

Others placing an order for this battery solution, with its multiple mounting options, will like its versatility, and it packs almost as much lunch as a V Loc 90-watt battery setup, at about half the weight.
Cheers

Battery Enclosure and Charger usage FAQ:

- Always insert battery cells according (+ -) marks on the battery holders.
- You can plug charger to any socket.
- Turn battery switch ON when you charge it.
- Charger shows RED light when battery is charging. Charger shows GREEN light when battery is fully charged.
- Always unplug all other devices from the battery before charging.
- Do NOT plug other devices to the battery during charging.
- Do NOT use simple DC power supply adapters to charge this battery module!
- You can use provided charger as a power supply replacement. It can directly power BMMCC camera or any other device that can support 16.8v voltage input.
- When camera is powered off, it keeps drain small amount of electricity from the battery. It is recommended always turn OFF Battery Enclosure switch when camera is not in use for extended time.
- Always turn OFF Battery Enclosure switch before plug/unplug DC cables.
- Always power OFF monitor and camera before plug/unplug HDMI cable.

Thanks for the added info Dmitry, this helps. I also added some black electrical tape over the soldered contacts, to prevent shorting, and it made the cover fit a little snugger. Nice product, well made. Thanks again.
Cheers

Yes, electric insulation is one of the reasons i want to use plastic rear shell in early models.
I was thinking about the same idea but contacts are hidden inside deep to 1-2mm and don't touch aluminum shell. I checked every battery to ensure the contacts are not extend outside. Also black anodized surface is dielectric until you scratch it. But i agree that additional protection is always useful. Maybe i'll look for thinner self adhesive tape and provide it as a kit.

I did it as an extra precaution, yes the contacks are recessed enough not to short. The extra protection, while not really required, is nice in case the battery unit gets dropped, or banged into. Just covering my bases. I like the alloy back, much better protection than plastic. Thanks again.
Cheers

Also note that this Battery Enclosure have build in short circuit protection. So even if you short circuit contacts somehow it will momentary turn off and don't let battery cells to burn or explode. When problem is fixed and there is no short circuit anymore it automatically turns on in few seconds and works as usual.

Thanks, good to know. I setup the battery module, and after charging it for two hours, it powered up the Micro Studio camera and Pix E monitor/recorder, reporting a 16.5VDC battery level on the PixE. This is grand having what amounts to a small VMount quality battery pack, in a much smaller form factor. Next is to add the Wooden Camera modified BMD EVF to the mix, when I get a power cable made up.
Thanks again Dmitry.
Cheers

I just found this tiny DC Power to USB Adapter Converter.
It have 5.5x2.1mm socket input (5.5x2.5mm compatible) and USB Type-C output.
It supports input voltage up to 22V and can power any USB device up to 45W. It supports different Quick Charge modes for smartphones.

Support Type-C PD and QC2.0/QC3.0/DCP/PE+1.1/PE2.0/FCP/AFC/SFCP/SCP/USB PD
Input: DC 5.5*2.1mm 10.5v-32v
Output: 45W Max. (5V/2A, 9V/3A, 12V/2A, 15V/2A, 20V/2.25A)

Currently i pre-order few those DC to USB-C boxes so in few weeks they will be available in my store as well. Seems like useful add-on for Battery Enclosure.

Here are some links to the product:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/45W-Min ... 40754.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dc-Powe ... 74518.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dc-Powe ... 74931.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Intelli ... 64127.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-USB- ... 81092.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Intelli ... 61477.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/cltgxdd ... 94129.html
https://www.tvc-mall.com/details/dc-5-5 ... 2593a.html
https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-5-52-1mm ... 16-4112164

.. great find.

Here the link to German Amazon:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07LFTWX2Q/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_fn7cDbP7N6ZTE

Here is another cheap and simple DC to dual full sized USB box. It is based on common DC to USB board. Input voltage 6V-30V. Max load - 24W per USB port.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual-2- ... 61782.html

I’m so glad I found this project and thread and I’m placing an order later today.

If you are thinking of extending the capacity in a future version but keep as much as possible of current base you could move up to 4x26650 in a isolated back to back 2x2 config.
Double the height of the aluminium cover, slot for stability of holders, minor change to cables but the same electronics, BMS and no parallel cells to worry about.
That would give 50% more capacity, keep form factor with the rig etc.

4x26650 seems like nice idea! There are similar designed holders for those cells exists and same BMS board will work well. But those cells will not fit to BMMCC SmallRig cage size. Also it seems 26650 are less popular yet and may be harder to find.
Currently if you need more capacity you can use multiple parallel connected battery setup described earlier in this post: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=71520&p=520811#p512809

Now i also have some DC Power to USB Type-C Converters in stock https://lavky.com/handmade/home-and-hob ... t=AM429494


(image by Jérôme Vogel)

Just wanted to add that this is fantastic and has given me the information I need to start thinking about making a "larger" LP-E6 pack for my Video Assist 4K. Need to put in some time looking for cells and BMS, but you've given me a lot of good info. Mine will not be for sale though, just a couple of one off for my own use.

That said, I'm finding it hard to get welded packs in the USA. The welded tabs provide a little more dependability than the spring type cell holders. I may need to build my own battery spot welder to get what I want. Have to see where I go with this. I also have a large number of old V mount batteries at work that I need to recycle, I may harvest the cells I need out of them for now.

New silicone mold is ready! Now i can start to cast updated version of LP-E6 type Connection Plates. As described earlier, it should fit to BMMCC more tight and more precise.

Great..

Very nice.
Thank you.
I'll order a couple as soon as they are available.

Very nice.
Thank you.
I'll order a couple as soon as they are available.

It was really risky experiment but it ended up successfully! I just done first test casting and some tests. Camera and battery now feels like single solid block. So you can order now and i will ship on Monday. Shipping cost $7.

Please note that new LP-E6 battery plate is NOT compatible with SmallHD monitors LP-E6 socket or with any other non Blackmagic LP-E6 sockets. It will fit only to BMMCC/BMMSC LP-E6 socket. It probably may fit to BM VideoAssist, but i don't test it because i don't have VideoAssist.

I will take one Dmitry, can you send me an invoice?
Cheers

I will take one Dmitry, can you send me an invoice?
Cheers

LP-E6 plate https://lavky.com/handmade/home-and-hob ... t=TF169381
Shipping & Packaging https://lavky.com/handmade/papercraft/s ... t=UV876580

Thanks for the link, order sent.
Cheers

In addition to worldwide shipping by Air Mail now i can offer shipping by UPS Express. Delivery time 3-5 days.

Built-in DC splitter allows to plug up to 3 devices simultaneously. Built-in battery capacity meter and ON/OFF switch. Perfect cable management, powerful, lightweight, low profile, cost-efficient and future-proof.
...
It is also highly recommend to use separate battery to power the monitor. Powering camera and monitor connected to camera HDMI port from same battery cause the "Ground Loop problem".

I have a question about this -- I have the battery pack, which is excellent, but I'm having trouble envisioning what other kinds of devices I could power using the splitter, in addition to powering the camera. The monitor would have been an obvious choice, but sounds like we should avoid that. What kinds of devices were you thinking of when you designed this with the splitter to three taps? I'm just curious.

I really can not tell you for sure if it safe or not to connect monitor and camera to same battery. A lot of people power battery and monitor from same battery without any problems (see https://bmmccrigs.tumblr.com ), but some very small amount of random people got problems with damaged HDMI port due similar connection. My guess that damage may be caused only by multiple factors combined in same time. Electrostatic discharge sparks from wool or synthetic cloth in dry weather environment + ground looped connection + poor quality HDMI cable. But this is still only my personal theory. To be 100% safe i just can recommend to power monitor from separate battery.

What kinds of devices were you thinking of when you designed this with the splitter to three taps? I'm just curious.

[/quote]
I designed this battery to be able power BMMCC during 6 hours at first place. There are also tons of other devices that you can power with additional sockets: follow focus motor, on-camera light, HDMI to SDI converter, sound recorder.


(Image by Gerard O)

I designed this battery to be able power BMMCC during 6 hours at first place. There are also tons of other devices that you can power with additional sockets: follow focus motor, on-camera light, HDMI to SDI converter, sound recorder.

Ah, that makes sense..powering the sound recorder is an interesting option too. Thanks!

Hi Brad.

I'm using Dmitrys module on my Micro Cinema.
One output is feeding the camera while another output is feeding my Swit CM-55C display.
The Swit is fed through a Traco DC-DC converter (TSR 3-24150) which I have mounted inside an old cleaned out Sony NP-F battery casing mounted onto the monitor. The output voltage from the converter is adjusted to 8.0V.
The Tracos are a little more expensive then the no-name Chinese DC converters but they have a very high efficiency and are extremely reliable.

As I never connect/disconnect the HDMI cable when powered and they have common ground I'm not afraid of any unhealthy currents frying my equipment.

I also have powered my Micro Studio with Dmitry’s power module, from one output and use the second to power my PixE recorder/monitor. Again, I do not connect or I connect any connections with power on. The PixE has a 12-18vdc input I use on it. Thinking of making a cable to power my BMD EVF with the third output, but need to check the total power requirements if I do this. You do not want to overload the battery back. I brought an older AB 75watt Gold Mount Battery to its knees trying to power the Broadcast camera, EVF and PixE from it!
Cheers

Petter Flink tells the right thing. Connect/disconnect HDMI cable when monitor and camera are powered probably also may be a source of HDMI chip damage. Even low quality cable or defective connector that lost signal too often may damage HDMI port as well.

So it is better always power OFF monitor and camera before plug/unplug HDMI cable. Especially if you power both devices from same battery.

For same reason it is better to turn OFF Battery Enclosure switch before plug/unplug DC cables.

When camera is powered off, it keeps drain small amount of electricity from the battery. It is recommended turn OFF Battery Enclosure switch when camera is not in use for extended time.

Excellent idea Dmitry, one I have followed so far, but good to remind everyone about doing this.
Cheers

Hi Dmitry

I am planning to purchase one of your modules. One day.

I was given a $50.00 B&H gift voucher can I put it towards buying your battery device.

Just kidding.
Hope that you will still be making them by the time I have saved my pocket money.

I tested the battery module with the Picket 4K, using a JuiceLink PC4K power cable, worked very nicely. The OC4K reported “AC” connection, as it does with a DTap setup.
Cheers

Denny, did you test total work time with Pocket4K? How many work hours it provides in real life?

Leon Benzakein, i PM'ed you

Not yet, just got the cable yesterday afternoon. I will be testing that next. I just did a quick test to see if it would work first, with the JuiceLink cable. Next waiting on my 8Sinn cage to work out a mounting option for the power module. The cage is sitting in the SanFrancisco Bay Area, with a UPS scheduled delivery for Friday, but UPS from Bay Area to here is 1-day (even ground).
Cheers

Denny .. do you use the T5 SSD?
Can you make the test with recording to that too?

And please post some images how you mounted it.

What is that "JuiceLink PC4K" cable?

I still have no real power solution... still working with the LP-E6.
Wasn't able to make a decision yet.

I do not use SSDs at this time, just CFast card. I have not mounted it yet (just got the PC4K delivered yesterday), waiting on my cage. The Juice Link cable: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Juicebox-Black ... 2749.l2649
Cheers

Denny... thanks for the link.

I use the 8Sinn Cage.. I love it, very well made.. just one problem:
all 8Sinn Products have a different distance between the 1/4'' holes - from center to center they have 8mm, not like SmallRig or other, which have 9mm.
So you can't mount any accessoires from SmallRig with fix distance mounting points.

There is a HUGE amount of DC to Pocket4K cables on eBay, AliExpress and many other places. Tilta, Lanparte, Aminimart and many other manufacturers sell them as well. Price range varies somewhere from $20 to $50.
5.5x2.5mm plug is most popular for this cable and it should fit to my battery enclosure well. But if you can choose, i always recommend to use 5.5x2.1mm plug. It just fits tighter and provides better connection.

Thanks, I discovered this with my 8Sinn Shoulder plate. I was thinking of using a quick release like this: https://www.camvate.com/camvate-quick-r ... p2118.html

Or a Rod mount behind the camera.
Cheers

Smaller v-lock may also fit i guess https://www.camvate.com/camvate-v-lock- ... p1820.html

You can also check full list of Alternate Quick Release mounting systems for this battery in item description.

But what is the hole spacing for the screws, I need 8mm. Thanks
Cheers

I see that holes at the part with lock arm have slightly extended shape, so they may provide variable distance and fit to 8Sinn cage holes. But i think you better ask Camvate about supported distance between holes.

As i discovered... 8Sinn is the only one using 8mm ... all others 9mm

I understand the attraction of having 2 holes to prevent twisting.
But if 1 hole will work for you, I have one of these and it works rather well.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/ ... ystem.html

just ordered one of these.
https://www.kondorblue.com/product/qrplate/

https://www.amazon.com/KONDOR-BLUE-Moni ... 0924&psc=1

Yes, thanks, I was also looking at the Kondor-Blue connector.
Cheers

Can someone who already use new LP-E6 battery plate (fits tighter to BMMCC) and have VideoAssist 5", check if it fits to VideoAssist battery slot?

OK Dmitry, I can do that when I go to the studio this afternoon.
Cheers

Can someone who already use new LP-E6 battery plate (fits tighter to BMMCC) and have VideoAssist 5", check if it fits to VideoAssist battery slot?

It did and it does. It's a snug fit but easily removeable.

OK, just tested trying to power the Pocket 4K from the SmallHD Monitor using a dummy battery on the camera. Camera camera one, and then shut down, not enough juice....

So back to the much better Battery Module by Dmitry, it will power both.
Cheers

@Denny: What runtime are you getting if you are just powering the BMPCC4k?

Dimitry, have you thought about shaping the case more like a side-handle/grip? Could be useful for the BMPCC4k, a little bit like the Tilta Handle, but with better batteries and more runpower/options . Also do you have any resellers that ship from inside EU?

Best,
Paul