Powering Atomos Shinobi and BMPCC4K With One Vmount battery

So I've been looking all around for information regarding powering both the camera (Bmpcc4k) and my monitor (atomos shinobi) with one v-mount battery without causing the HDMI port to blow out. From what I've seen online it can be done with a dummy battery going into a cheeseplate and then dtap out from the actual battery to the camera. People are saying basically that it works but not for ever because this causes a ground loop. Has anyone come up with a safe solution to powering a monitor and a bmpcc4k from one vmount battery?

Some suggestions where described here viewtopic.php?f=2&t=110278&p=611663#p609410

Thanks for taking the time. I read through all the forums but I didn't see a solid answer to my specific question.

The answer depends on several factors, including the battery, battery plate being used, if it’s DTap is isolated from battery direct connection, etc. I you use a Battery plate like the Wooden Camera Pro V-Mount or Gold Mount tomPkcket 4K with its dedicated connection cord and isolated DTap connection, then you have a better chance of trouble free success, as long as you connect all cables first, then power up the monitor, and camera. But there is no guarantee you might not have issues. Best situation is to use separate power sources for monitor and camera, then no feed back loop can occur.
Cheers

The answer depends on several factors, including the battery, battery plate being used, if it’s DTap is isolated from battery direct connection, etc. I you use a Battery plate like the Wooden Camera Pro V-Mount or Gold Mount tomPkcket 4K with its dedicated connection cord and isolated DTap connection, then you have a better chance of trouble free success, as long as you connect all cables first, then power up the monitor, and camera. But there is no guarantee you might not have issues. Best situation is to use separate power sources for monitor and camera, then no feed back loop can occur.
Cheers

I use the Camvate plate but I don't know how to figure out if the Dtap is isolated from direct battery connection. I've used it with both the monitor and camera plugged in for hours with no issues but I don't understand how I can know it's wrong without a catastrophic failure. How can I test it without sacrificing my camera? Also I'm aware that the safest way is to power it separately but I made this post to find out how to power both together safely if I ever choose to do it. For now I am using separate power though.

Yep, it was a story with another damaged HDMI port just few months ago viewtopic.php?f=2&t=110368