FalseColorFilms wrote:…”I’ve seen the Blackmagic false color chart — but I’d really appreciate general advice on:
- How to read the color bands practically (e.g., pink vs green vs gray for skin)
- What to aim for on the key side and fill side of a face
- How others use it for matching shots and controlling contrast
…
False colour provides you with a great tool to judge your exposure. Zebras also can be used to note where in your scene you may be in danger of clipping. Except for specular highlights, you may not want anything to clip. Clipping can occur in any or all colour channels. Some cameras like the BMPCC4K have colour pots on the camera monitor that indicate if there is clipping of the red, green, and/or blue channels. False colour clipping is less well-defined as the transition to red false colour from yellow false colour may not be clipping in all channels, but it’s a warning you may be clipping. As you know clipping means loss of any detail and is generally to be avoided.
Judging faces is sometimes challenging if you have a lot of other things going on in the frame. It’s not all about the face. For example you may be trying to avoid clipping of the highlights by stopping down the iris or you may want to retain details in the shadows by opening up the iris.
Generally people try to have light-coloured skin look pink and dark-coloured skin look green. But I usually shoot with light-coloured skin looking green and adjust in post using DaVinci Resolve. In post you can always bring up the shadows and the light by a stop. If your monitor face looks good without false colour, you have a good exposure. When you really want to have more shadow detail, a light grey face will still be recoverable in post as you balance the exposure zones.
Key light and fill light ideally should not be radically different light levels, a face could be light grey and a fill could be green and you’ll be fine in post. If you want a film noir look, you’re going to have more contrast and maybe have your highlights look pink while your fill is a darker grey. You can light key and fill fairly evenly and apply the increased contrast in post. But you do need to have your captured footage showing say a stop of difference.
So no one-size-fits-all as the correct exposure is art, not science, and the captured footage is only the first step while the ‘correct’ exposure and colour is determined by you in post.