Demetrius Spencer Ursa G2 enquiry to Bob Hart

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robert Hart

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Demetrius Spencer Ursa G2 enquiry to Bob Hart

PostMon Oct 18, 2021 8:38 pm

Sorry about using public space to reply to your PM. Due to some special order in which things should be done which I could not get my brain around, the reply I thought I sent to you has evaporated. If you have not received it please let me know and I will rewrite it. Unfortunately I did not copy-paste my reply to save it.
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Demetrius Spencer

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Re: Demetrius Spencer Ursa G2 enquiry to Bob Hart

PostMon Oct 18, 2021 9:23 pm

Thanks Bob,

No the message did not come through. Thanks

Spencer
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robert Hart

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Re: Demetrius Spencer Ursa G2 enquiry to Bob Hart

PostTue Oct 19, 2021 10:26 am

PARTIAL URSA MINI/MINI PRO DISMANTLEMENT INSTRUCTION SET.

It looks like the BM messenger function does not work. All I can find is your original message and nothing else.

So - if BM gets the hump over the following becoming public so be it.
-------------
Please be aware that any visitation inside your camera will void any warranty.

Please also be advised that you assume all risks of damage/personal injury if you follow the instruction set below.

There is not point in suing me as about all you will get is stones and grass. I am not well off financially or I would be buying new not indulging in rescues of troubled cameras.

Please also be advised that Blackmagic Design has not authorised or endorsed this instruction set below.


To get the left side cover off to be able to release the front, the back has also to come off.

The battery plate has to be removed.

The SSD dock and mount have to be removed if fitted.

The three SDI BNC sockets and 4-Pin XLR sockets have to be released. You will need a tube spanner to unscrew the collar nuts on the SDI sockets and a philips screwdriver for the two screws holding the XLR socket. The correct not maybe hex keys, hex bits, Bristol wrenches, elbow wrenches or Allen keys whatever they are called these days need to be used. Otherwise the loctite on the screw threads may not yield before the phillips or hex screwheads core out and then there will be tears.

Put a matchmark of whiteout on the XLR socket and adjacent edge on the body. You will need it later, trust me.

Using a CORRECT fitting Philips screwdriver bit from a miniature set, not a maybe. Why? The little screws you are about to loosen will just about core out on their own before your very eyes before you even touch them so there is no chance an ill-fitting screwdriver bit will work. unfasten the cover plate which holds the BNC sockets and XLR socket. The Lanc and earphone sockets are not attached to this cover plate.

Remove the molex battery power connector. Trust me, it is a bitch but doable. There is a release latch which does an "I think I can" but doesn't quite release. The pins are a tight fit.

Unfasten the rear cover plate and remove.

Be careful to allow the XLR and BNC sockets on their sub-board to fall inside and not pull up tight. They are on a small sub-board from memory. Be sure not to let that sub-board pull on the little ribbon cable which attaches it to the upper left of a transverse PCB inside. Ribbon cables are easily damaged.

This ribbon cable should be unfastened by removing two small philips screws from a cover/clamping plate which secures a tiny strip connector. Be very gentle. Ribbon cables tear just by you imagining they will before they experience actual handling yet other times they can be quite robust.

There are internal molex connectors at lower right which should be unfastened and a short bridge cable removed. Be sure to matchmark with a felt pen the plugs/sockets.

There are two ribbon cables which connect via two strip connectors which themselves are secured by cover/clamping plates. They connect the media dock module to the transverse PCB at its lower face.

I recall there is a clamping or support plate secured by two screws for one of the molex connectors. There are four holes in a row. Matchmark the screwheads and their holes. This has to be removed to enable workspace to get at the strip plugs.

Be very gentle when removing those strip plugs. The ribbon cables like their neighbour are just conspiring to destroy themselves at the slightest excuse.

From memory, you should now be able to ease the left side cover away from the body far enough to also ease it forward far enough to allow the ND filter selector shaft to clear inside its hole and the front edge of the left side cover to ease left far enough to allow the front lens mount support to be removed forwards. Avoid stressing the media dock module when easing the side cover forward.

Take care not to move the left side cover too far as the LCD screen's cable may pull up right and be damaged. It passes across from left, under the lens mount support to the main PCB on the right.

There is a strip connector for this at the lower front of the main PCB. It is I think also secured by a cover/plate fastened by two small screws.

You may be tempted to remove the mainboard. - Don't. However remote, there is the chance that an iffy solder joint may be disturbed by flexing of this board as you loosen and tighten screws. The three screws in the centre of the mainboard are forbidden fruit. They pull and secure the heatsink against the Xilinx processor.

They do not support the mainboard. The mainboard supports the weight of the heatsink and when there is a tripod fall, especally onto the right sidehandle, there is a severe loading on the mainboard which flexes inwards and rebounds.

On the dead URSA Mini Pro I have here, there are witness marks in the heatsink radiator where it moved across far enough to impact the heads of small fasteners inside the left side cover.

My personal preference would be to secure the far ends of the heatsink radiators to casework with small dobs of white water-washable NOT silicone bathroom sealer to dampen the movement of these masses against transport vibration and tripod falls but the available points are a bitch to get at.

I ended up not doing it, mainly because I thought my camera was not going to work for long. As things stand it still lives.

Be aware that removing the front lens support/ND filter housing exposes the sensor to the environment as the blue IR filter is in the front lens support housing. You really need a cleanroom to be diving into that area of the camera.

You also need to be sure the internal microphone leads do not pull up tight and become damaged. I cannot now remember but I think the microphone assembly attached with two tabs which may be attached to the front lens support. The leads from the microphones attach via two plugs on the rear of the sensor PCB.

It appears that when these were installed, there is no consideration of them ever being disconnected again. They are an absolute abomination to unfasten without damaging them.

I hope this is helpful.
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Demetrius Spencer

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Re: Demetrius Spencer Ursa G2 enquiry to Bob Hart

PostTue Oct 19, 2021 1:27 pm

Thank you Bob. I take all responsibility as the warranty expired and BM will not RMA the unit for me to pay for the expenses. You're a great man my friend.
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Ellory Yu

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Re: Demetrius Spencer Ursa G2 enquiry to Bob Hart

PostTue Oct 19, 2021 2:45 pm

This is very thorough Bob. I think everyone can appreciate your effort just in case they need it. I now can see why BMD do not want to support out of warranty repairs and/or charges a bunch - it's plainly time consuming.
Blackmagic Design URSA Mini Pro 4.6K G2, Blackmagic Design Pocket Cinema Camera 6K
PC Workstation Core I7 64Gb, 2 x AMD R9 390X 8Gb, Blackmagic Design DeckLink 4K Mini Monitor, Windows 10 Pro 64-bit, Blackmagic Design DaVinci Resolve 17.1.4
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robert Hart

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Re: Demetrius Spencer Ursa G2 enquiry to Bob Hart

PostWed Oct 20, 2021 5:19 am

Further to above, there is a young guy named Ash Warren who has posted on Broadcast Gear For Sale, a closed facebook group looking for busted equipment to practice on and repair. The is a big URSA in his workshop, also Small HD monitors. Folk have been responding.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/broadcastgearforsale

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