Blackmagic Forum

Any progress and/or news with regards to a new firmware updates to address the reported issues and when?

WahWay wrote:The problem I have with the Pocket 6k Pro is because the HDR screen is so bright it gives the wrong impression of what is actually been recorded which is far more underexpose compare to what you see on screen unless you have the brightness setting reduce to less than 10% but then you won't be able to see the screen in bright outdoor. I don't know if a future firmware can fix that?

Never expose based on your screen brightness, that’s what tools like the histogram and false color are for..

USB control now seems to work with the Ronin S running V2.4.1.30 firmware and the BMPCC4K V7.3.
Last time I tried it with the old camera firmware, communication would fail as soon as I turned the Ronin S focus wheel. Now seems to work controlling the focus on an Olympus 12-100 IS Pro. The only problem I've seen so far is that as soon as turn the focus wheel after powering on the camera, the focus initially moves to closest focus. The Ronin S rear record button also works.
I'll try it for a while and see how reliable it is

Has BMD said officially that there is going to be an update for the BMPCC 4k fixing the mount compatibility issues and peaking? Or are we waiting for an update that will never come?

I don’t believe they’ve made any commitment, but I suspect we shall see an improvement in a timely update.

The one issue that affects my manual camera is the difference in the behaviour of focus peaking coloured lines. I used to use Red Medium and that still can work if you have the time in a personal project or test, but now Green Medium is a better choice and generally the High Range will be what is most commonly used on a client shoot. If “Orange is the New Black,” then Green High is the new Red Medium.

And I reiterate, never shoot ISO 1000. As you know, that fills all low lit areas that are starved for light with dancing false peaking dots. My recommendation for the low range is between 200-400 ISO and the high range is between 1250-3200 ISO. ISO 1600 is also very good and likely what I’ll use in judging an image when ISO 3200 isn’t needed.

Many images without significant action will look great in 360 degrees shutter angle rather than go to a higher ISO. For example, 400 ISO with 360 shutter angle might often look better than 800 ISO. I’ve done that for theatrical shoots. Maybe I’m a dreamer but I like that look on stage although not appropriate when recording BMX bikes.

These suggestions don’t always maximize your dynamic range so carefully use as you monitor channel clipping and false colour.

rick.lang wrote:I don’t believe they’ve made any commitment, but I suspect we shall see an improvement in a timely update.

I'm not sure what "timely update" is if they have not made any commitment. I have a shoot next month and it would have been nice to get my camera with a stable 7.3.x. I'm not holding my breathe and will not update yet.

ATM we don't even know if there really need to ..

* USB control: I didn't dig into it since I have no hw to test, but it might just be that the gimbals are at fault, not being USB compliant. Sometime manufacturer make assumptions/take shortcuts in the implementation and it could be that some assumptions that DJI/Others made in the past are no longer correct with the new fw.

* MFT speedbooster: Again ... hard to tell if the current speedbooster firmware are fully MFT compliant and the bmpcc is sending invalid message, or if they took shortcuts that end up incompatible with an updated (but still mft compliant) implementation.

* Native MFT lenses issues: That one seems more likely where they are actually doing something wrong ... given some lens work after being replaced, it looks to me like some reset issue which might be why it got missed. It's not uncommon to have test systems that only test compliance of the messages but don't replicate exactly the startup sequence and so that gets overlooked.

FYI:

On my Pocket 4K (purchased Jan. 2019), with the Panasonic Lumix 25mm f1.7 model H-H025 lens (latest firmware 1.1) I can reproduce the following issue ...

With camera firmware 7.3 installed, I created the following 2 Presets (new from scratch):

Preset 1: Set lens f-stop to f1.7. BRAW Constant Quality 8:1 HD 1920x1080, 23.98 fps, HFR [On], Off-speed frame rate 120 fps. Save Preset.

Preset 2: Set lens f-stop to f2.8. BRAW Constant Quality 8:1 UHD 3840x2160, 23.98 fps, HFR [Off]. Save Preset.

When I switch between these 2 Presets, either:

- The lens' iris begins "clattering" (rapid clicking noise) continuously, and the camera must be powered-off to stop it.
- Or, the Iris status text at the top of the monitor is blank (no aperture value is displayed).

In either case, after I power cycle the camera, the Iris status text is displayed correctly. Other than this specific issue, my Lumix 25mm f1.7 lens works fine with firmware 7.3.

Under firmware 6.9.6, Presets created new from scratch as described above don't have any issues with this lens.

Also, my other 2 lenses (Olympus 12-40mm f2.8, and Lumix 45-175mm f4.0-5.6) don't have any issues under firmware 6.9.6 or 7.3, and these 2 test Presets also work fine with these lenses. Of course, neither of these other 2 lenses can open their aperture as wide as f1.7.

Peter J. DeCrescenzo wrote:In either case, after I power cycle the camera, the Iris status text is displayed correctly. Other than this specific issue, my Lumix 25mm f1.7 lens works fine with firmware 7.3.

Hi Peter,

Instead of power cycling, just press the lens release button. That resets the communication with the lens and you should be ok while we look into this.

Kristian Lam wrote:

Peter J. DeCrescenzo wrote:In either case, after I power cycle the camera, the Iris status text is displayed correctly. Other than this specific issue, my Lumix 25mm f1.7 lens works fine with firmware 7.3.

Hi Peter,

Instead of power cycling, just press the lens release button. That resets the communication with the lens and you should be ok while we look into this.

im having this exact issue with the same exact lens. i dont have any other auto lenses to test on it. i switch my presets and it happens, the constant jitter noises and the iris not showing up. it doesnt happen all the time but a lot of the times. the jitter is actually kind of terrifying. it does work fine after pressing the lens detatch button.

roger.magnusson wrote:

Mike Potton wrote:-Some native Olympus MFT lenses not auto focusing
-Alot of native MFT Lumix lenses not auto focusing are unable to activate OIS and unable to use focus by wire manual focus. 14mm-45mm, 12-35mm, 35-100, plus some primes have been mentioned

My experience differs from those reports. Hard to know why without specifics. Maybe they are using old lens firmware. I have tested every MFT lens I own, they all work perfectly in 7.3, including the 12-35 and several Olympus lenses.

Iris control: Works
Autofocus: Works
Fly by wire manual focus: Works
Fly by wire manual focus with the Olympus manual focus clutch engaged: Works
Image stabilisation (Olympus 12-100 and Panasonic 12-35): Works

These are the lenses I tested (all lenses have the latest available firmware):

• Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12mm f/2
• Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 25mm f/1.2 PRO
• Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 45mm f/1.2 PRO
• Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 75mm f/1.8
• Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12‑100mm f/4 IS PRO (IS works, but can't be turned off in the camera, only on the lens)
• Panasonic Lumix G 14mm f/2.5 ASPH. (Mark I version)
• Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 12-35mm f/2.8 ASPH. POWER O.I.S. (Mark I version)

If it matters, this is on an early Pocket 4K (not one of those that can't be downgraded to a firmware with DNG).

Hello!
Can you explain how can I set to "Autofocus" on the RS2? I've got P4K and Panasonic 14mm plz? I've tried several times to set this but I can choose anywhere Trigger to Autofocus on the menu of the RS2.
I can pull the focus with the wheel... But I will need sometimes the autofocus function.

Do you have any idea, it will help me a lot.
Thanks
Virasanh

@ Virasanh

You don't get true continuous auto focus with the gimbal.
But you can trigger the push AF by half-pressing the REC button on the gimbal. That acts the same like pressing the focus button on the camera.

you can get continuous auto focus with the RS-2
with the focus motor and the 3D focus modul
on hardstop lenses (MFT cine lenses or metabones speedbooster)

https://store.dji.com/product/ronin-focus-motor
https://store.dji.com/product/ronin-3d-focus-system

Hello,

Received my Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K this week and I've noticed, like many users, I can't open or close the iris with a Viltrox EF-M1, regardless of the lens I use. I tested a Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8, Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM, a Canon EF-S 18-55mm kit lens, and a Canon EF-S 24mm, and none of them work. The Blackmagic is currently on the 7.3 version, and the Viltrox on the 3.6 version.

asenraa98 wrote:Hello,

Received my Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K this week and I've noticed, like many users, I can't open or close the iris with a Viltrox EF-M1, regardless of the lens I use. I tested a Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8, Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM, a Canon EF-S 18-55mm kit lens, and a Canon EF-S 24mm, and none of them work. The Blackmagic is currently on the 7.3 version, and the Viltrox on the 3.6 version.

check last viltrox update, i had metabone, 7.3 and 7.3.2 beta and i use easely sigma 18-35, canon 18-55, 17-55 2.8 , 70 200 2.8 is ii, 10-18 and more.

carlomacchiavello wrote:

asenraa98 wrote:Hello,

Received my Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K this week and I've noticed, like many users, I can't open or close the iris with a Viltrox EF-M1, regardless of the lens I use. I tested a Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8, Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM, a Canon EF-S 18-55mm kit lens, and a Canon EF-S 24mm, and none of them work. The Blackmagic is currently on the 7.3 version, and the Viltrox on the 3.6 version.

check last viltrox update, i had metabone, 7.3 and 7.3.2 beta and i use easely sigma 18-35, canon 18-55, 17-55 2.8 , 70 200 2.8 is ii, 10-18 and more.

I installed the latest version, which is the 3.6.

Meanwhile, a friend told me I bought the wrong Viltrox: I should have bought the EF-M2 II, and not this one.

Edit: Viltrox responded to my complaints and showed me the iris working when paired with the same lenses and camera. Maybe I bought a faulty adapter.

Edit 2: Problem solved! I had already installed the latest firmware of the adapter, but I did that with my old MacBook Pro. I did the same thing with a Windows computer and somehow it worked! I can now control the iris.

Hello all,

My apologies if this has been addressed somewhere else. I saw one similar comment but nobody ever responded that I could find.

I decided to update my 4K camera to 7.3 and got a "failed to update" message at the 99% mark. So, decided to try again but got a message saying "camera is up-to-date." Updates and functionality all seems to be there (so far), so curious if I should even bother with going back to a previous update and then trying again or not.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Bummed about the reduced focus peaking visibility. I need it! Any new thoughts on this apparent issue?

Go to probably green for focus peaking. You can actually see that.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

rNeil H wrote:Go to probably green for focus peaking. You can actually see that.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

You mean go to green as in…?

In the camera's menu system you can set the color used for focus peaking. It's normally set to red by default.

Set it to green instead.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

rNeil H wrote:In the camera's menu system you can set the color used for focus peaking. It's normally set to red by default.

Set it to green instead.

That definitely seems better than using red, for sure. Thanks for the advice. Still isn't great but it's useable I guess. (That really needs to be addressed in a future update. Geesh.)

Would love to know if anyone has ever experienced the "failed to update" yet it updated issue. Don't see any issues. Camera says it has 7.3 update. Dunno, but it's always a little disconcerting to see such warnings. Have never experienced that before.

By the way, what does "uninstall cameras" really do during a firmware update? All I could determine was that it deleted previous updates, packages, etc. from my Mac. Doesn't seem to have deleted anything from the camera.

Thanks again!

I have trouble seeing red in some light and as I am usually phtography outside, ie wildlife, I set mine to blue and found that the best for me.

Uninstall camera’s is a ‘strange word’ for ‘uninstall software’ so yes, it uninstalls the software on your Mac.
If you want to downgrade your camera you can easy download an earlier version, run the software and connect your camera.

By the way I never use focus assist but peaking instead. I’m a broadcast camera operator and the camera’s I use only have peaking so I’m used to work with it and I like it much better than focus assist which ‘ruines’ your image.

Thank you very much for the responses, all.

Looking at the message boards now, I'm wondering if I didn't screw up by upgrading my PCC4K to 7.3. I'm not seeing any issues yet but it hasn't been put through its paces since the update. My camera still had version 6.6 on it, so it hadn't been updated in a long time. Was there ever any official communication regarding the issues with 7.3 and every beta thereafter? Or is the expectation that people will comb the message boards first?

If I have any issues with my 4K I can use my 6K (4K became a B cam when 6K was purchased) but my 6K has also been updated to 7.3. Is the 6K having problems with 7.3 also or is it mostly the 4K?

Sorry for all the additional questions, just kinda concerned now. Not really a prolific message board user, so I guess I'm out of the loop.......

I wouldn’t say upgrading to 7.3 was a bad decision given the several new features it brings. I can’t comment on anything related to electronic lenses since I only shoot manual lenses so my opinion is certainly not the last word, but I consider the 7.3 to be an excellent upgrade but that did make it harder to see those focus assist red lines.

I’ve often found problems with the accuracy of focus based on earlier releases as the coloured lines were too ‘generous’ and from that perspective the 7.3 focus assist green lines are an improvement in accuracy although one must be careful. Focus peaking and focus assist may be more difficult in situations where there is little contrast or clear edges, but in general use, I am grateful to have 7.3 including the new focus assist on my BMPCC4K.

Hello everyone. I got Ursa 4.6K G2 in October 2021, do I have to update camera before shooting cause I did it a few times and I have a problem with not having a Lossles recording option in menu? I remember I had 4K lossles on Pocket 4K? Do I have to update or G2 doesn't have Lossles recording option in 4.6K? Thanks and see you around.

There's no mathematically lossless compression on any current BMD camera. I don't remember if CDNG in the Pocket 4K was lossless, but they removed CDNG because RED was challenging them with their patent for in-camera compressed raw.

rick.lang wrote:I wouldn’t say upgrading to 7.3 was a bad decision given the several new features it brings. I can’t comment on anything related to electronic lenses since I only shoot manual lenses so my opinion is certainly not the last word, but I consider the 7.3 to be an excellent upgrade but that did make it harder to see those focus assist red lines.

I’ve often found problems with the accuracy of focus based on earlier releases as the coloured lines were too ‘generous’ and from that perspective the 7.3 focus assist green lines are an improvement in accuracy although one must be careful. Focus peaking and focus assist may be more difficult in situations where there is little contrast or clear edges, but in general use, I am grateful to have 7.3 including the new focus assist on my BMPCC4K.

Seems like a nice update. I have lost anything resembling accurate AF though. Definitely hope there is a fix for that at some point. I'm moving toward manual lenses also and tend to use my AF lenses manually most of the time, but geez, the camera should do what it's supposed to do. The focus assist isn't an issue with an external monitor but, again, the camera should do what it's supposed (advertised) to do. Perhaps I'm just more forgiving than some filmmakers and cinematographers; I can definitely see how this would be unacceptable to some people though. I switched from Canon to BMD in 2018 and haven't looked back as I've had zero issues. But now..... I guess we'll see what the future holds....

Panasonic Lumix zoom lenses have good auto focus with this firmware. Also the Sigma 16mm works well. I'm just adding this info to show that not all is bad with this firmware.

roger.magnusson wrote:There's no mathematically lossless compression on any current BMD camera. I don't remember if CDNG in the Pocket 4K was lossless, but they removed CDNG because RED was challenging them with their patent for in-camera compressed raw.

Video Cdng uncompressed was only on Ursa mini pro G1, pocket4k had compressed cdng 3:1 minimum, only photo did with photo button give you uncompressed dng (which was indistinguishable) from compressed 3:1.
In past I did many test between two different setup.
Anyway if you disable unsharpmask from cdng to eliminate false dectails of aliasing, is very very difficult to understand difference between q0 or braw 3:1 and cdng 3:1 or uncompressed.
I did in past an article about it to use cinema camera like photo camera using video raw like way to grab right moment on photo.

www.macchiavello.com/wp/en/shooting-wit ... a-cameras/


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

please i need help, i plugged my 6k to update to 7.7.3, i started the upgrade and then it failed now my camera isn't coming on anymore.

ifende wrote:please i need help, i plugged my 6k to update to 7.7.3, i started the upgrade and then it failed now my camera isn't coming on anymore.

* Ensure camera is not connected via USB.
* Hold down focus button while powering on camera. It will start up with a black screen.
* Connect camera to computer via USB.
* Run the Blackmagic Camera Setup again