Blackmagic Forum

Hi All,

As mentioned earlier, I want to use my Blackmagic Pocket also for nature documentaries. The sensor is a S16 size sensor and most of the time I try to get more reach (= lens mm) on my current DSLR APS-C camera. I have the Nikon 300mm AF-S, without VR. This lens is very sharp and does offer a aperature ring and manual focus.

Will it be possible to shoot stable video with this lens and camera on a tripod? Tomorrow I'll receive my 502HD head from manfrotto. Will panning and following objects be possible with a 300mm * 2.88 crop factor?

Does anyone have footage from a comparable setting?

Under normal condition, an effective 864mm is the dream of any birder/nature videographer.

I guess it is all up to the quality of the tripod and head. I have a 70-300 zoom where you attach the lens to the head (not the camera). It seems to work out fine.

Peter

Bluemagics wrote:Hi All,

As mentioned earlier, I want to use my Blackmagic Pocket also for nature documentaries. The sensor is a S16 size sensor and most of the time I try to get more reach (= lens mm) on my current DSLR APS-C camera. I have the Nikon 300mm AF-S, without VR. This lens is very sharp and does offer a aperature ring and manual focus.

Will it be possible to shoot stable video with this lens and camera on a tripod? Tomorrow I'll receive my 502HD head from manfrotto. Will panning and following objects be possible with a 300mm * 2.88 crop factor?

Does anyone have footage from a comparable setting?

Under normal condition, an effective 864mm is the dream of any birder/nature videographer.

On a good solid tripod you should be fine tho focusing manually with an AF-S lens is not that easy as the focus throw is very short.

Panning and following your subject might be tricky at those focal lengths but the practice and a good quality fluid head you should be able to get some reasonable footage.

The 502HD is ok but it's not brilliant.

You'll need to make sure both the lens and camera are properly supported.

Peter Östlund wrote:I guess it is all up to the quality of the tripod and head. I have a 70-300 zoom where you attach the lens to the head (not the camera). It seems to work out fine.

Peter

Peter, Any footage from the pocket camera with this lens @ 300mm ?

A quick test with my Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8

Adam,

Thanks for the test video! Quick question, that shake @ 200mm (without the speed booster) (= 200*2.88). I'm pretty sure the camera was on a tripod, but did you only mount the 70-200mm lens to the tripod or also use and extra mount to attach the camera also to the tripod (and make it even more stable?)

The shake at the start and end of each clip is me pressing the record button.

As this was just a quick test I was using a stills tripod. I was also on a carpeted wooden floor. So not really a stable platform.

The lens was mounted on the tripod via the tripod collar.

I'll see if I can upload some pics later. It is a Nikkor 75-300.

Panning will be extremely tricky, at that length not to mention focusing... Then throw in the shake from panning and focusing... Not a good combo. You'd need a good FF at least, super sturdy tripod.
That lens is perfectly fine, but you might want to try avoiding moving around, and stick to stationary shots. Also, at that extreme length, you really are at the mercy of the air quality and the heat. Don't be surprised if you get hazy, blurry footage when you know the lens is tack sharp. Is there a compelling reason you are choosing this cam over another camera more suited to shooting wildlife? The battery life out in the wild is the also another problem, you will need a ton of batteries.,,,

What will be a better camera for this kind of this (hobby!) work if you don't have a big budget?

The problem with full-frame camera's is that you need very expensive lenses to get more reach. The 300mm Af-S Nikon was above the thousand euro and that was my max budget for a lens at that time.

Which camera would you recommend?

You mentioned you already own the BMPCC, so you can definitely make it work. The sensor size isn't the issue- in fact like you've discovered, the crop is a plus for reach.
The most difficult thing to do with a long lens, other than stability, is initial focus acquisition. Forget about follow focus and framing the subject properly for now, and say you spot a bird in a tree. With the BMPCC you will have to locate the subject, manually focus on it accurately and quickly. Quite frankly I just don't see how you could do this consistently well enough with the focus peaking or 1:1 modes on that screen, which is hard enough to use outdoors on still subjects. Manually focusing a long lens is hard enough. Not saying you can't, just saying that reliability and consistency will be an issue. You would be better off prefocusing and waiting for the subject to come into view.
A good, sharp EVF will be a plus if you have the budget. At any rate, these are limitations to be aware of. On a super tight hobbyist budget for wildlife (you mentioned nature docs but seems more specifically you want to shoot wildlife), I would think the GH3 would be the best option. You can set the camera to do one shot AF which will help you acquire focus quickly at the onset. Built in EVF will be super helpful outdoors. Coupled with the 100-300 I think one could pull off some wildlife shoots quite consistently. Plus, if you need stills it's right there. But unless you can switch cams at this point this is all moot. The IQ of the BMP camera and codec is hard to beat, but it really is better suited to more static or controlled environments where you aren't trying to follow something around, focus on it, operate the camera all at the same time. Bottom line is, learn to use the equipment, and be realistic with your expected results, or what you can/can't shoot (big difference between filming an elephant vs a hummingbird) especially given a hobbyist budget. I'm sure you can make it work, you will have to find workarounds, be patient, and just enjoy working.

No matter what camera you use, working at an equivalent of over 860mm will be hard work focusing and tracking moving objects.

As I mentioned in my original reply, it's made even more difficult trying to manually focus an AF-S lens as it's not designed for manual focus. The slightest move of the focus ring has a huge impact on focus. Just try to manually focus that 300mm lens on a full frame DSLR.

As thebicyclecafe says focusing with the BMPCC screen not easy so you might want to invest in an EVF of monitor. The smallHD monitors like the AC7 have great focusing tools that could help.

Another lens options maybe?? You might get better results with the Panasonic LUMIX G VARIO 100-300mm as it has OIS, it's lighter, you can zoom out to help find your place and then zoom in once you have located your target. You can also probably use the BMPCC's auto focus to start.

worth looking at this video for reassurance about what's possible
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13661

Lee, thanks for the reference, I had forgotten about that post, great example of shooting nature with a BMPC