ND filter for 50mm f/1.4

Hi guys, I have seen some threads related to NDs but my question remained unanswered. I film a lot with 50mm (on DSLR) and plan to film with the same lens on my new BMCC. Well I came to the point that I need to get f/1.4-2.8 outside and it is too bright for the lens. I know there are many NDs with various additional numbers, like 0.9, 1.0, 2.0 etc. I am new to NDs and they all make no difference to me. Has anyone got similar setup like mine and could recommend any good NDs from www.amazon.ie (I am in Ireland) that I could trust and enjoy without any distortion in colors and sharpness? Thank you in advance.

I've had good experiences with B+W filters. Filters are one of the things you shouldn't make a compromise with, they're just another glass layer to your lens. Have also heard good things about Lee filters.

By the way I do not need black and white or graded NDs. I grade everything myself in Davinci, so all I need is to let me get less light into the camera with minimum distortion in color and sharpness. I love RAW

You can use a variable ND or buy a set of ND's that cover a range of stops.

0.3 (ND2) = 1stop
0.6 (ND4) = 2stops
0.9 (ND6) = 3stops
1.2 (ND16) = 4stops
1.5 (ND32) = 5stops
Etc

You'll want IRND as anything over 0.9 will show a lot of infra red pollution.

On a side note... Shooting with a 50mm on the BMCC would be like shooting on a 115mm on a full frame DSLR or 72mm on a ASP-C DSLR. That's pretty long...

On a side note... Shooting with a 50mm on the BMCC would be like shooting on a 115mm on a full frame DSLR or 72mm on a ASP-C DSLR. That's pretty long...

I know but what's the other option? I have tokina 11-16 as well, but this is pretty wide angle. I also have 28mm, but I love 50's blur and sharpness.

You can use a variable ND or buy a set of ND's that cover a range of stops.

0.3 (ND2) = 1stop
0.6 (ND4) = 2stops
0.9 (ND6) = 3stops
1.2 (ND16) = 4stops
1.5 (ND32) = 5stops
Etc

You'll want IRND as anything over 0.9 will show a lot of infra red pollution.

Would you recommend such ones https://www.formatt-hitech.com/en/produ ... -1-(1-Stop).html?

By the way which one is the most common for bmcc? 2.0? Or even 3.0?

When iverha mentions B+W he is referring to the brand. They make many kinds of very high quality filters. They are expensive and among the best available.

On a side note... Shooting with a 50mm on the BMCC would be like shooting on a 115mm on a full frame DSLR or 72mm on a ASP-C DSLR. That's pretty long...

I know but what's the other option? I have tokina 11-16 as well, but this is pretty wide angle. I also have 28mm, but I love 50's blur and sharpness.

The Tokina is a good option. It's not extreme wide on the BMCC but a good choice for wide angles.

24mm/25mm is close to the FOV of a 50mm on Full Frame. 35mm is close to the FOV of a 50mm on an ASP-C camera. 35mm f/1.4 (Zeiss or old Nikon AIS) is lovely.

If you have the BMCC MFT then you could add the Metabones SpeedBooster.

Would you recommend such ones https://www.formatt-hitech.com/en/produ ... -1-(1-Stop).html?

By the way which one is the most common for bmcc? 2.0? Or even 3.0?

Formatt Hitech are good. I have a set of their 4x4 IRND filters for use in a matte box.

I would not buy 58mm screw fit. It limits your use. If you then want an ND on say the Tokina, you'll have to buy again. Gets expensive. Put a 77mm step up ring on all your lenses and buy one set of filters. You can then use them on all the lenses.

I'd start with 3 densities on the BMCC:
0.6 (ND4) = 2stops
1.2 (ND16) = 4stops
1.8 (ND64) = 6stops

The BMCC has a great dynamic range and can deal with the difference easily in post. You can then fill in the gaps as you have budget.

Another option is a variable ND like the GenusTech Eclipse Fade (http://amzn.to/1awCQa1) and an IR Cut Filter like the Hoya UV / IR Cut (http://amzn.to/17RjCYz).

I shoot with a variable ND filter, which is more of a polarizing filter than a true ND filter, so I have been told. I have been warned that it can effect the colors, especially the reds. perhaps my eyes are not good enough to detect it. but it would be a cheap way to figure out how much light you usually need to cut and buying more expensive filter/filters to suit your needs. I hate to carry around unused gear.
just a thought
aloha
tito