NicWassell wrote:Really all I meant was that the Aaton was the most comfortable camera I ever operated and I'd love to see a digital camera in the same form factor.
Me too. Alexa classic is kind of the closest to me.
NicWassell wrote: I don't know anything about electronics so I don't know what if anything could sit in the mag section to stop it being wasted space (given you don't need all that space for CFast cards - maybe some kind of housing for a battery?). I'm not really so naive as to think it will ever happen but I can still dream!
It's all about balance. CFAST cards don't weigh much. We need more of the weight out the back.
NicWassell wrote:It's interesting that some of the BM staff used to work for Aaton.
No they didn't work for Aaton, they worked for the local Aaton agent in Australia (as did I)
NicWassell wrote:And I definitely do appreciate that the BM viewfinder allows for left eye operation every time I use it, as that is the eye I use myself being left eye dominant. I didn't even realise I was in the minority until very recently.
Yes it's amazing how many people it is that are left eye. It wasn't until the left eye types at BMD pointed it out as they were proud to accomodate those users like you out there !
NicWassell wrote:I do like my UMP G1, but even with it balanced as best as I can make it and with the official BM shoulder kit, I do still find it tiring after not a huge amount of time and a little prone to rolling on my shoulder. Maybe that's just my anatomy though and I will still take it over a rigged up box design for shoulder shooting any day of the week.
Setting up a camera to shoot with is something few people seem to take the time to set up properly.
You want the weight to be centred around the camera body and as low to the camera bodies centre of gravity.
Imagine trying to balance a bowl on your finger tip. THEN imagine trying to balance it when it's upside down. Much more likely because the weight is below the centre of gravity and it will just "sit" there.
This is what you want to do with a hand held camera. Have the wight as low as possible compared to the camera's centre of gravity. If the centre of gravity is higher, then it will be more twitchy and if the weight is off to the side, it's more likely to feel unbalanced and want to roll.
When a camera want's to roll on the shoulder like this it's usually NOT because of your shoulder shape, but typically because the user has weight that is hanging off the camera and not in line with the camera's central zone.
You don't want noga arms with monitors standing the weight off the body itself in any way.
So get rid of back and stuff on your hand held camera. Use cinelocks or other quick release systems to take accessories on or off as you need to make it faster.
With what's left, build them so they don't hand out far from the camera body, but are close to it and positioned as low as possible.
Try to have weight out the back of the centre of gravity. Batteries are GREAT for this. I know some operators that get extra long rods so the camera can be made LONGER. this means they can then SLIDE the batteries further away from eh camera but kind of use them like a counterweight. Some people will also UNDERSLING the battery to get it even lower.
Many operators also get a shark fin, or a dual battery adaptor. This lets them mount TWO batteries on the back, so you get better balance. Increased run time sure, but here's the thing. You're ADDING weight to make it MORE COMFORTABLE. Think about that.....It's better balanced, so it's heavier but more conformable to use for longer times.
https://www.newsshooter.com/2019/02/07/ ... -core-swx/Most cube camera when converted to hand held, typically have cages slide plates and bridge plates that often add precious inches to the height of the build. The camera is now sitting TALLER on your shoulder because of the cages and adaptors. This makes it less stable than a camera where the body itself sits on shoulder like a classic Alexa.
Here's a good test. If you sit the camera on your shoulder like you're about to roll, what happens if you let go ? Will the camera just sit there ? You should aim to build your rig so it could just sit on your shoulder if you let go of your hands. Your arms should only be steering, not lifting.
Here's an example of a good design. Classic Alexa. Draw a horizontal line from the sensor out. Notice how it's WAY below where the operators eyes are if you draw the same horizontal line ?
Look at the vertical line of where the sensor is. Ideally you want this also to be closet to where your eyes are located.
If this guy let go, the camera probably wouldn't immediately fall to the ground.
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Now let's look at an Arri CUBE build. This is how they typically are done and they SUCK if you're a skilled hand held operator. The weight is all the way forward. Notice the handles are folded in. The guys hands are practically in front of the matte box !!
Look how much HIGHER the camera is sitting above the shoulder compared to the Alexa. You can't see his face but the angle of the EVF tells me this guy is LOOKING UP to look through the viewfinder. His head is leaning back and he's looking up! Because his camera is sitting so high.
Higher centre of gravity makes this way less stable.
The transmitter is off to the side and it looks like he has a Preston MDR ON TOP, which again, makes the COG much higher.
All the weight is now forward. He's lifting the camera into place, not steering the shot. If he let go, the camera would instantly fall to the ground.
This build would suck a lot to operate hand held. It wouldn't be comfortable for longer takes, and the camera wouldn't be as steady because of how high it's sitting on the shoulder.
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I see a lot of RED cube builds that suck in equal amounts.
Look at this one. Hands are in front of the matte box. Lens mount is BEHIND the eye and higher than the eye.
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One of the most important aspects of the work I do as an operator is spending a lot of time in preproduction on the builds of my camera. 99% of the builds I see out there suck and could be made better with a few tweaks. Cube cameras are the hardest to tweak better.
JB