Matt Choules wrote:Roman Medvid wrote:... but since you don't give a joint point of grey for them, this I'm afraid is exactly as JB said, just a measurement for under and over exposer, not a DR measurement.
Call me an idiot, but this made no sense to me. Can you explain what you mean?
Sorry, but I might be as wrong, so let's try to find some common ground:
Imagine you have a perfect lens that may change the aperture by 13-14 stops. You will be able to draw a characteristic curve of the camera's sensor. Sorry if this is totally off-topic here, but have a look at the curve I drew based on my measurements for Canon 50D
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5586.msg95991#msg95991.
I did this in 2 goes: the OVER wing starting from grey point and the UNDER wing starting from the SAME GREY POINT.
If you do the OVER part, you may have the aperture at f/22 and then increase the exposure.
If you do the UNDER part, you may have the lens wide open and then decrease the value.
BUT the reading of the exposure level at the grey point should be the same (in my 50D case the reading was approx. 240).
If you do it this way, you may not even care about IRE -- just do it step by step from the grey point.
HINT: if you do all this stuff at angle 180 degrees and have your lens closed at f/22 as the max closed, start decreasing the shutter angle. Rememeber? You can substitute speed for aperture and vice versa as long as you do it by proper units. 180 -> 90 -> 45 degrees is the same as closing the aperture by 2 stops.
Also, don't look at the f-stops in my graph - they are symbolic of the exposure. My real f-stop was different depending on the lighting. But I was dosing the light STEP BY STEP, judging by the lighting reading within the camera and Resolve.
Please tell me this makes sense ))))