Blackmagic Camera App - Issues/Bugs

Yes, I saw that later.

This was not mentioned in the original post, that I answered (I was not there, you see).

It does not alter the general need for precautions, IF you create time lapse sunrise recordings aiming a modern camera WITHOUT mechanical shutter into the sun (with a light collector - aka lens - in front) over several hours.

Huh?

Peter was not "aiming ... into the sun."

In winter temperers around freezing, he was aiming north while the sun was rising in the southeast. Indeed, he was doing it two days after the winter solstice, when the sun is at its furthest point south.

I don't know what latitude you live on, but the sun was behind the camera.

Kurt was adding a general warning this time, Rob.
And he’s right about this. If the sun is in the frame over extended periods, even in winter and close to the horizon, it can burn your sensor.
When I was less experienced and tried to just shoot a sunrise, I burnt a hole in my shutter (textile in those years) by just waiting for the perfect position.

Yes, I saw that later.

This was not mentioned in the original post, that I answered (I was not there, you see).

It does not alter the general need for precautions, IF you create time lapse sunrise recordings aiming a modern camera WITHOUT mechanical shutter into the sun (with a light collector - aka lens - in front) over several hours.

Huh?

Peter was not "aiming ... into the sun."

In winter temperers around freezing, he was aiming north while the sun was rising in the southeast. Indeed, he was doing it two days after the winter solstice, when the sun is at its furthest point south.

I don't know what latitude you live on, but the sun was behind the camera.

Why ignoring: “aiming a modern camera WITHOUT mechanical shutter into the sun”

Hmmm… the ONLY thing affecting the power of the Sun (around 150 million kilometers from earth, if I remember correct) light reaching earth, is “amount of atmosphere to cross”, clouds (reflecting and blocking light) and the sun not being shaded by our own planet (called night).

IF the sun is up, no shading, same height over the horizon, local temperatures make no difference. -20C or +20C may effect the cooling option of a smartphone, but “spot temperatures” of concentrated sun light (aka with help from a lens) are not really cooled down to innocent levels.

You still need welding glasses when welding (or looking into the Sun) in Antarctic summers!

Regards

Kurt was adding a general warning this time, Rob.
And he’s right about this. If the sun is in the frame over extended periods, even in winter and close to the horizon, it can burn your sensor.
When I was less experienced and tried to just shoot a sunrise, I burnt a hole in my shutter (textile in those years) by just waiting for the perfect position.

Got it. He's replacing a post that's just wrong with a "general warning"

Your example also has nothing to do with the scenario that's being discussed. As anyone who owns a mechanical rangefinder camera knows, or will soon learn, if you leave your camera in a position where the lens is aimed at the sun, the lens will turn into a magnifying glass and burn holes in the shutter curtain. So you don't leave your camera lying around so that it can aim at the sun. That's why I don't leave my Leica M3 or M6 lying lens up, without a lens cap, on a table outdoors. When the sun and the lens come into line, I'll be facing a stiff bill for a new shutter curtain.

This is Rangefinder Cameras 101.

Peter was not using a rangefinder camera and he was not aiming at the sun.

You still need welding glasses when welding (or looking into the Sun) in Antarctic summers!

We aren't talking about the Antarctic summer. We're talking about north of the 49th parallel at the winter solstice. Let me tell you for a fact, based on personal experience, that there is no need whatever for welding glasses at that latitude and time when you're facing north. Indeed, if you wore them, people would think that you're crazy.

This discussion is just bizarre.

Testing Cinema P3 Pro HEVC Time Lapse on iPhone 15 Pro


Time lapse duration and/or stress test.

iPhone 15 Pro mounted in SmallRig universal smartphone mount placed on tripod. Position locked and not altered. Internal recording. x1 lens (“24mm”) aimed at large TV (partially filling frame) simulating “movement” of sorts (no motion blur selected).

Settings

25 fps, one frame each 10 seconds, Cinema P3 HEVC 10-Bit 2020 HLG

iOS Focus mode with “No Disturb” automatically activated.
Timer set to four hours (always stopping recording)

Conditions

Room temp 24,0C (walls) floor 22.9C, ceiling 24.0C.

Test results

Skærmbillede 2023-12-24 kl. 16.03.12.png (117.78 KiB) Viewed 5781 times

The term “Recorded” is runtime recorded according to Cinema P3 screen info.

Recorded file size: 5,03 GByte, 23,min53s, 3,5 MByte/sec. Constant 25fps.

Conclusion:

The three hours recording limit could not be reproduced on my iPhone 15 Pro, Cinema P3 Pro time lapse recordings not showing any undue stress or temperature rise.

As long as memory is plentiful and other actions do not terminate a recording, lacking the the exact conditions and settings in the original post, I lean to the conclusion, that the three hour recording “limit” in this case may have “other causes”, than the iPhone, the App, time lapse, codec chosen and duration per se.

The active four hour timer (the ONLY active timer) on the iPhone 15 Pro was only used to stop recordings after around four hours of recording activity for practical reasons.

All alarms and timers stop recordings, when going “active”. This cannot be prevented - yet? In this case, it was a “wanted side effect”.

Regards

There was no heat problem from the sun, nor was there any problem from imaging the sun. I live in Western Canada and I was shooting northwards. The sun rises in the SE at this time of year.

It's possible that the phone overheated, but I doubt it. It certainly showed no signs of it when I returned. The software quit again while shooting TL this evening and the camera was outdoors in -1C temperatures so there's very little likelihood of overheating on those shots. Some other TLs were successfully recorded without failures, leading me to believe that there's more to this than simple overheating.

I did increase the H.265 data rate to 8mbps before this morning's TL and the resulting file sizes show that this was successful. They are twice as large for the same time duration as what they were previously. It's possible that this change initiated the failure. More testing required.

The good news is that there are no glitches in the files. They're rock stable. Any problems beyond the early shut downs are my fault alone.

One characteristic mentioned by Tom is that the software does "soft ISO adjustments". Since the light levels vary widely with a sunset/sunrise TL, some kind of dynamic exposure adjustment is necessary. I could see the program incrementing the ISO by a single digit approximately once every few seconds as the light levels dropped. Those changes were invisible in the resulting 30 second file. Excellent coding, I'd say.

Thanks for your interest.

Just to make it absolutely clear:

I’m in no way doubting your findings. I regard them as true. Period.

I’m more interested in finding the cause for “unwanted behaviour”, whatever it is.

Enabling everyone to avoid “problematic settings”. If that’s achieved, even if only partially, everyone wins.

Regards, a happy holidays and a New Year more peaceful than the current for all of you and your loved ones.

I wonder if there's any way to retrieve overheating data from the phone. I'm certainly not going to baby sit the phone for three hours as it watches clouds moving in the northern sky, but maybe the phone stores overheating failure data somewhere. Dunno. This is my first iPhone.

I should never have written "sunrise". I should have written "dawn". That's what I was shooting.

In any case, a three hour dark-to-daylight transition is about as photographically challenging as it gets. That's why I tried it. Maybe I'm expecting too much.

Note that another time lapse in -2C conditions mysteriously failed, too. And within a shorter time.

I wonder if there's any way to retrieve overheating data from the phone. I'm certainly not going to baby sit the phone for three hours as it watches clouds moving in the northern sky, but maybe the phone stores overheating failure data somewhere. Dunno. This is my first iPhone.

I should never have written "sunrise". I should have written "dawn". That's what I was shooting.

In any case, a three hour dark-to-daylight transition is about as photographically challenging as it gets. That's why I tried it. Maybe I'm expecting too much.

Note that another time lapse in -2C conditions mysteriously failed, too. And within a shorter time.

Just a thought:

If you go into the Fucus settings, and select “Do not disturb”, and then the Apps you want to give “max protection” (Cinema P3 and BlackMagic for example), then EACH time you start the App, the “Do Not Disturb” state is automatically activated (signaled clearly), and when the App is sent into the background, the state is automatically disabled (also signaled).

Any caller will automatically be told, that you cannot be reached at the moment (at least I am, when I call from my other number on my iPhone 12 Pro).

Try it. It works completely “automagically”. It may be all, you need!

Regards

P.S. Forgot to mention, that any calls are noted in you Telephone App, including time and any caller info.

I wonder if there's any way to retrieve overheating data from the phone.

I’ve found none.

The message is NOT a standard iOS message. As far as I remember, it was red “terminal text” on a black background (like a terminal screen, from “deep below” the standard OS), shortly after the telephone shut down. NO sound either. Nothing. Waking not possible for some time. Touching is not recommended.

Problem: After some time, the Phone again feels normal to the touch.

I regard this as an emergency message directly from a highly stressed piece of hardware, not even able to save anything, sound anything - only a hard shutdown possible.

Nice to know it exists, but it takes a certain amount of trial and error to see.

Somehow I do not expect, that you’re experiencing this emergency, UNLESS your phone is basking in the noon tropical sun hours on end - or something similar has gone awry.

Regards

I wonder if there's any way to retrieve overheating data from the phone.

I’ve found none.

The message is NOT a standard iOS message. As far as I remember, it was red “terminal text” on a black background (like a terminal screen, from “deep below” the standard OS), shortly after the telephone shut down. NO sound either. Nothing. Waking not possible for some time. Touching is not recommended.

Problem: After some time, the Phone again feels normal to the touch.

I regard this as an emergency message directly from a highly stressed piece of hardware, not even able to save anything, sound anything - only a hard shutdown possible.

Nice to know it exists, but it takes a certain amount of trial and error to see.

Somehow I do not expect, that you’re experiencing this emergency, UNLESS your phone is basking in the noon tropical sun hours on end - or something similar has gone awry.

Regards

Thanks for the tip. I set Do Not Disturb ‘On’ for all camera apps that I can use when I know I don’t want interruptions including Zoom.

The only difference I can imagine is the switch for motion blur being activated, which Kurt did not.

I have it first hand from Tom that it averages the frames between your stills, which is a great feature, but computationally demanding. It’s nice if, for example, some trees in the wind are blurred instead of jittering about.

Do you remember your setting for that switch, Peter?
And, yes, I have seen that system warning for overheating when using the phone in a sleeve in a room with 27 degrees when shooting at 50 fps. Shooting under identical conditions with 25 fps didn’t trigger it.

It goes away after a while without further notice and I don’t know how to retrieve any data for it.

Merry Christmas and a happy holiday to everybody.

Uli, unless that frame blending function is invoke by CP3 automatically, it wasn't on. In other words, I didn't turn it on.

Nor have I invoked "do not disturb" in iOS settings. That is a possible source of the recording stoppages. I'll do that next time. Will "airplane mode" suffice for this?

Little by little, I learn. Thanks to you guys.

Merry Christmas to all of you!

Airplane Mode would suffice, but why not do what Kurt described? You won' forget to switch off and on and it works perfectly fine here.

Uli, you may be onto something as adding motion blur would be a lot more processing than capturing a frame. Tom would know if he was adding that processing. Surely Apple’s image processing isn’t doing this automatically like their over-sharpening of images? If Apple’s doing it then it will show up in individual frames recorded by their own Photos app, if it supports Timelapse.

Edit
Apple’s iOS camera app supports Timelapse. Something else to test. It’s only Christmas!

Rick, as I already wrote, Tom has confirmed he does frame averaging when that switch is set to 'on'.

Neither BM's nor Apple's app does it.
Apple is doing some frame combination for the highlights with EDR, though.

Yes, I understood that. I was wondering if Apple applied the effect without our knowledge. Probably not, but perhaps worth a brief test if we can find a subject with motion like those tree branches with a light wind. Merry Christmas.

Heads up - unusual USB-C Power Delivery experience

IF you are receiving the new message “USB-C cable too slow” (typically AFTER external recording - sigh), and you’re using an external powered hub, it may not be the cable between the hub and iPhone, that’s problematic (I use a 40 GBit/100 Watt cable).

It turns out, that one of my powerbanks is not able to deliver a high enough voltage to the hub. When I switched to one of my three other power banks, there were no problems.

The powerbank delivered optimal, requested (by the hub) voltage, far below the 20V/5A allowed. The problematic powerbank tried to deliver 5V/3A, barely enough to feed the hub (depending on load, between 15 and 20W) plus iPhone while writing.

This seemed to trigger the message, when the recording (Apple Camera, 422HQ HDR) was stopped after one minute. It seems, that although the external SSD was recognized, the output was “deferred”, and after a long wait, (the record button showed a circulating white ring) the message turned up.

The recordings were all saved to the external NvME SSD in the hub, but it’s probably not guaranteed, if the “internal intermediate buffering” runs high (let’s say requiring 20 minutes worth of storage, and you only have 15 minutes left). It probably doesn’t help in that case, that the external storage is recognized as having room for 288 minutes.

After switching from the problematic powerbank to the powerbank, I usually use, no problems. Recordings stopped, when requested. No additional waits. No warnings. Same cabling, just different powerbank.

Note, that the problematic powerbank easily delivers up to 60W sustained with other gear. It seems to be a case of two USB-C Power Delivery devices (powerbank and hub) not being able to negotiate a common “setup”, that allows enough power for peak requirement in the hub.

Akin to the commonly experienced negotiation failures in the UN in recent times.

Won’t go into details on that. If you don’t have the gear to measure, what goes on in the USB-C connection, you’re forced to use trial and error anyway (or a less power hungry setup).

Note: I changed nothing. Just used a different powerbank, connected through the same cable to the hub, where cabling to the iPhone remained identical. Same take (iPhone on tripod, not moved or redirected, same recording time, setting etc).

Happens. Seldom, but it’s not the first time, a similar situation has turned up (with different powerbanks negotiating conditions with different USB-C gear).

Just a heads up, that the warning is correct - speed is limited - but the cause need not be the actual cable used, if a powered hub is used connected to a power bank (or an USB-C charger somehow choosing a less optimal Power Delivery option).

Of course, if you use an USB-C cable only certified for USB 2.0 as Apples penny pinching accountants have chosen to include in the standard iPhone 15 Pro (Max) delivery (or a defective cable), the warning may be quite correct. Recording will probably be lost in that case too.

Regards

… if you use an USB-C cable only certified for USB 2.0 as Apples penny pinching accountants have chosen to include in the standard iPhone 15 Pro (Max) delivery…

How about we just stop referring to the world’s most valuable company (over $3T) as “Apple” and start referring to them as “The Grinch?” Watched The Christmas Carol last night and although Scrooge valued money above all else, he eventually did reform and became loved instead of only respected. “The Grinch” seldom will put a customer’s needs before their profits although there are some instances where they do.

.

I agree, Rick. Apple's success is, I think, largely due to the most important word in their vocabulary:

"Customer"


That said, providing a powerhouse video camera/gigabit file maker with a lame-ass USB 2 cable is chintzy beyond imagining.

I bought a fast USB 3 cable for my 15 PM and it let me copy a 1.6GB file to the T7 in about a second.

Ten bucks.

Canadian!

Has anybody seen the issue that when ”AppleLog - HDR” colorspace is selecter, recorded video has color space ”Rec.2020”?
iPhone 15 Pro Max 17.2.1
BlacMagic Cam 1.2.10003

It’s question that responsible journalists should ask The Grinch. What a minute, I can’t think of a highly responsible tech journalist that gets to interview The Grinch; their only evident responsibility is to ensure they have access to Grinch Inc. They certainly aren’t going to risk having The Grinch turn red with embarrassment because his handlers didn’t prepare him for such a loaded question.

To get back to the subject of time-lapse:
It seems that HEVC encoding may be overheating the phone when doing time-lapse, not motion blur.
It was pretty hot today and two tries with HEVC stopped after less than 10 minutes. No, I didn't babysit the phone, so I can't tell which message came up. Finally, I tried ProRes instead and it recorded for more than half an hour.

To get back to the subject of time-lapse:
It seems that HEVC encoding may be overheating the phone when doing time-lapse, not motion blur.
It was pretty hot today and two tries with HEVC stopped after less than 10 minutes. No, I didn't babysit the phone, so I can't tell which message came up. Finally, I tried ProRes instead and it recorded for more than half an hour.

It doesn‘t make sense, frankly.

I used HEVC time lapse for four hours without problem (24C environment, for all practical purposes constant iPhone 15 Pro temperatures). No direct sunlight. Temperatures are higher, when doing the same in ProRES 422 in the same around 24C environment for internal recordings.

If it „dies“ within 10 minutes, wouldn‘t it be at least possible to make one of your cameras or any other smartphone record the screen, while performing the timelapse?

Regards

To get back to the subject of time-lapse:
It seems that HEVC encoding may be overheating the phone when doing time-lapse, not motion blur.
It was pretty hot today and two tries with HEVC stopped after less than 10 minutes. No, I didn't babysit the phone, so I can't tell which message came up. Finally, I tried ProRes instead and it recorded for more than half an hour.

Do you have Facebook running or similar „always on“ software actively „scanning“ your phone use?

Try „stopping“ all other software, ideally try “rebooting” the iPhone, without starting anything else, and only start the program making the timelapse. Does that alter anthing?

I have a “clean iPhone” - no Meta (or similar) software running.

Regards

P.S. One of the “heat/extraordinary power use” issues initially with iOS 17, was a less than ideal “approach” used in Metas Apps (and a few others “milking” user data after “informed consent”)

No Facebook here, for sure!

I'll try to record the screen with a second camera tomorrow.

What I can already say after analysing the footage:

- Time-lapse with motion blur is aesthetically more pleasing if there are moving objects, in this case wind was coming up and shaking some trees. This could be done in post conventionally, but having frame averaging right in the camera makes things so much easier. It did not overheat the camera, as I assumed earlier.

– The iPhone does a very good job adapting the exposure. I had the shutter fixed and just let the ISO drift. I could spot no jumpiness in the exposure levels as experienced with many hybrid cameras, and this was a day with massive changes – or solar energy generation fluctuated between 0.5 and 3 kW midday.

– It might look even smoother if I would set the shutter to 360 degrees (or at least close), since I could spot some multi-contouring. But that would cancel the EDR and might only fit situations with limited contrast.

@Uli

When you test again - with camera recording - remember to go into Settings + Battery immediately after shutdown (or as soon as possible) and perform screendumps of “Last 24 hours” and also screendumps of the top positions of power use per app.

IF an unexpected App has an unusual High power use…. And all that jazz…

Regards

Has anybody seen the issue that when ”AppleLog - HDR” colorspace is selecter, recorded video has color space ”Rec.2020”?

Yes, Apple is combining their log with the color space Rec. 2020. Nothing wrong with that, DR 18.6 is treating it correctly with RCM.

To get back to the subject of time-lapse:
It seems that HEVC encoding may be overheating the phone when doing time-lapse, not motion blur.
It was pretty hot today and two tries with HEVC stopped after less than 10 minutes. No, I didn't babysit the phone, so I can't tell which message came up. Finally, I tried ProRes instead and it recorded for more than half an hour.

Uli: was this time lapse done with BMC? Or Cinema Pro 3?

If with BMC, are you seeing the same exposure and focus anomalies I was seeing?

No Facebook here, for sure!

I'll try to record the screen with a second camera tomorrow.

What I can already say after analysing the footage:

- Time-lapse with motion blur is aesthetically more pleasing if there are moving objects, in this case wind was coming up and shaking some trees. This could be done in post conventionally, but having frame averaging right in the camera makes things so much easier. It did not overheat the camera, as I assumed earlier.

– The iPhone does a very good job adapting the exposure. I had the shutter fixed and just let the ISO drift. I could spot no jumpiness in the exposure levels as experienced with many hybrid cameras, and this was a day with massive changes – or solar energy generation fluctuated between 0.5 and 3 kW midday.

– It might look even smoother if I would set the shutter to 360 degrees (or at least close), since I could spot some multi-contouring. But that would cancel the EDR and might only fit situations with limited contrast.

In Cinema P3 you can select 25fps and 1/26sec or 50 fps and 1/51 sec now.

In Blackmagic Camera, it is possible to select 25fps and 1/25s and 50 fsp 1/50sec (the latter also giving the option to extend the time lapse by a factor 2, obtaining 25fps instead of 50 fps with 1/50sec shutter.

I have never felt the urge to use motion blur, but that may of course change, when summer and sunshine arrives. I still lean toward doing this in post, where control can be more "delicate" depending on subject, instead of "one size fits all". Especially in h265, the bitrate is hard to control with certainty. I sometimes get very low bitrates, without any obvious cause.

Rergards

Please join us here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=188344

Sigh, that's how things go. Same settings, same environmental conditions. Only another camera looking at the screen. It doesn't stop with HEVC. Not even after twice the time.

A bit like our cat, which doesn't do anything it shouldn't do if we are looking at it

Sigh, that's how things go. Same settings, same environmental conditions. Only another camera looking at the screen. It doesn't stop with HEVC. Not even after twice the time.

A bit like our cat, which doesn't do anything it shouldn't do if we are looking at it

I have suspicion, maybe even an "inspiration from above". What if... (more later)

Do you remember, if you went directly from starting the App into time lapse mode, without doing different recordings (or even another time lapse prior to "the real thing")?

Had you done work in the App, when you started the privious time lapse? Maybe moved the App from "the background" to the front, working on other things between using the App?

Is it possible to get MediaInfo data on the "failed" and on the "successful" time lapse? Do they differ in bitrate? How about the metadata, also saved into the file?

There seems to be an element of chance involved

I have looked into my roughly four hour time lapse, and surprise, surprise, something is NOT, what it should be. Usually I only use two HEVC settings - 20MByte/sec or 40MB/sec. But my recording was only at 28,1 Mbit/sec (~3,5 MByte7sec) according to MediaInfo in 2160p HEVC.

This should not happen. The file clearly states Cinema.P3 in the metadata. So… ehhh… hmmm… what if…

I remember to have used Blackmagic Camera App, and asked for 1 out of 10 frames, HEVC and active alert on dropped frames (maybe no influence, but….) I also looked at Apple Camera. But… sequence, settings etc. are - to be frank - a bit murky now.

The Cinema P3 recording has 23min 52s or 35825 frames. IF 1 in 10 was used, the duration was 358250 ordinary frames at 25fps, or 14330 seconds equaling 3 hours 58 minutes and 50 seconds. File size is only 5.05GByte (even if I had used 20MByte/sec, I should have produced around 160-200 megabit/sec for the resulting file of around - let’s say, give and take - a 32 GByte file (5 GByte * 180 megabitpersecond/28 megabitpersecond = 32).

How come, I did NOT get that?

A few very quick and dirty experiments

When I start the 10x Time Lapse AFTER selecting 20MByte/sec (I had setting at ProRES), I get typically between 24,4 and 24,7 Mbyte/sec as a result.

When I start the Cinema P3 10x Time Lapse directly (just to make sure, I rebooted the iPhone) I get 24.4 MB/sec. The last App accessed, was Cinema P3 in 10x Time Lapse.

When I reboot the iPhone, start the Blackmagic Camera in x10 time lapse mode, put that into the background, and then start the Cinema P3 10x Time Lapse, I get 5,4 Mbyte/sec.

When I close both the Blackmagic Camera and Cinema P3 App’s (swipe up to remove), start the Apple App, select “Time Lapse?” (In my language called “Tidsforløb” by Apple), put the App into the background, and the start Cinema P3 10x Time Lapse I get 4,5 MB/sec.

God only knows, what I had originally selected, used, switched to and from, BEFORE starting - or heaving Cinema P3 into the foreground - but it certainly affected the outcome.

AND I CAN AFFECT recording quality by simply starting Cinema P3, AFTER having had another App active, before “running” Cinema P3 in Time Lapse mode.

Theory

Cinema P3 uses whatever settings may be active in the iPhone, AFTER being started. Whether another App has been active in the meantime or not, makes no difference. Cinema P3 seems to use “current state” (when brought into the foreground), whether that state was set by Apple Camera (in this example leading to 4,5MByte sec) or Blackmagic Camera (in this example leading to 5,4 Mbyte/sec) instead of the 24,4 Mbyte/sec (in this example), being the only Camera App started (never sent to the background).

In short, Cinema P3 seems to use whatever camera state exists, when brought into the foreground.

Advice

IF you ALWAYS select the Cinema P3 camera preset you want to use as BASE MODE for the Time Lapse (ProRES 422/422HQ, HEVC 40/20MByte, whatever), you get, what you ask for. Otherwise, you get was is currently actively set (by this, that or the other App, maybe even Cinema P3

Try selecting the required preset immediately before starting Cinema P3 Time Lapse.

My guess is, that a previous overheating not reproducible later may be caused by…. You’ve guessed it.

This may of course also explain why time lapse recordings ordinarily working as a treat, but sometimes failing miserably. The element of chance actually could be reproduced in the above examples.

Regards

You might be onto something here. My failed recordings from yesterday have lower bitrates than those from today, without me changing the settings in CP3. But yesterdays bitrates in HEVC were 83.6 Mb/s and 148 Mb/s respectively, so they were considerably higher than the ones you get from BM's or Apple's app, which I didn't even use in between.

Todays successful recordings were at 377 and 401 Mb/s. The phone has not been off between the days.

All have 25 fps CFR.

I'll do some more tests tomorrow, it's pitch black now.

You might be onto something here. My failed recordings from yesterday have lower bitrates than those from today, without me changing the settings in CP3. But yesterdays bitrates in HEVC were 83.6 Mb/s and 148 Mb/s respectively, so they were considerably higher than the ones you get from BM's or Apple's app, which I didn't even use in between.

Todays successful recordings were at 377 and 401 Mb/s. The phone has not been off between the days.

All have 25 fps CFR.

I'll do some more tests tomorrow, it's pitch black now.

Just to make things absolutely clear: The low bitrates, I quoted, was what Cinema P3 actually delivered when being activated or moved into the foreground and started recording, AFTER not even having used Blackmagic Camera or Apple Camera in Time Lapse mode (just having "activated the two Apps in Time Lapse mode).

Having another App affecting camera settings in any (unknown) way before using Cinema P3 may (in some circumstances?) be enough to get in trouble.

Hence the advice: BEFORE starting a Time Lapse, be sure to select the Preset, you intend to use during the Time Lapse recording (activating a presets more or less guarantees, that ALL camera settings are completely set as intended).

Regards

This thread is sounding like we already have the two lead actors for an episode of Only Timelapse Murders in the Building, but who will play the part of the savant Selena Gomez? I heard Howard was cast, but I’m doubtful he’ll take the part!

This thread is sounding like we already have the two lead actors for an episode of Only Timelapse Murders in the Building, but who will play the part of the savant Selena Gomez? I heard Howard was cast, but I’m doubtful he’ll take the part!

Haven't "the foggiest" of what you're talking about (this is probably a world wide forum

Regards

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11691774/?ref_=ext_shr_lnk

You and Uli are playing the role of the two ‘amateur’ detectives, in our case discovering what’s going on with these camera apps, but Selena Gomez seems to be the brains in their podcast.

Why not a male actor this time, Rick? What about you?

Too kind, but I’m staying safe behind the camera on this podcast, trying to make you both look your best… in post.

I'm seeing this same issue in VideoLUT. Shot Blackmagic in anamorphic 1.33, using AppleLOG. VideoLUT shows a large green patch over the right third of the image. Hoping this helps add visibility.

Why does the image zoom in slightly when I press record? Am I missing something?

Steve.

Do you have image stabilization turned on?

I do, but the camera is only set to HD and I did not see it on the previous version. Turning stabilization off does indeed make the zoom go away. However I do not believe that having stabilization on should effect a framing change when recording starts, that's just nuts!

Steve.

iPhone 15 Pro Max.

I've noticed horrible lag when recording when "Display LUT" is enabled in Settings and "Cinematic" is set under stabilization. "Extreme" is even worse.

"Standard" still has a slight lag, but pretty close to real-time (but still noticeable.)

When "Display LUT" is disabled, all of these stabilization settings work in real-time with zero lag.

I selected "Apple Log To Rec709" under "LUT Selection" (the default), but otherwise haven't imported any custom ones found elsewhere.

Is this intended behavior or an issue on my end?

However I do not believe that having stabilization on should effect a framing change when recording starts, that's just nuts!
Steve.

I agree. The "zoom-in" should happen as soon as you select stabilization. No surprises, then.

I do, but the camera is only set to HD and I did not see it on the previous version. Turning stabilization off does indeed make the zoom go away. However I do not believe that having stabilization on should effect a framing change when recording starts, that's just nuts!

Steve.

This has been the case since iPhone 14 and is widely understood. It has nothing to do with Blackmagic's app. It's in the iPhone User Guide at https://support.apple.com/is-is/guide/i ... 20default.:

Turn Enhanced Stabilization off and on
On iPhone 14 models and iPhone 15 models, the Enhanced Stabilization setting zooms in slightly to provide improved stabilization while recording in Video mode and Cinematic mode. Enhanced Stabilization is on by default.
To turn off Enhanced Stabilization, go to Settings > Camera > Record Video, then turn off Enhanced Stabilization.

Also look up Action Mode:

Stabilize video recordings with Action mode
Action mode allows you to record fluid videos freehand, even when you move a lot (during a jog or hike, for example). To activate Action mode, open Camera, switch to Video mode, then tap the "Action Mode disabled" button (iPhone 14 and later).

There's a good deal of discussion about Enhanced Stabilisation and Action Mode on the internet, including videos about them on YouTube.

This video, using an iPhone 14, explains Action Mode, which both reduces the resolution and crops the image:

This is a cool 39 second example of Action Mode at work on an iPhone 15:

That demo of action mode using the statue is very suspicious to me. I suspect post production stabilization was used in addition to the camera's stabilization.

Shooting hand held at the highest level of stabilization with the 120mm lens is not for the faint of heart.

The function introduces a viewfinder delay of about half a second and adjusting framing during the shot
(i.e. "camera operating" ) becomes problematic. Your adjustments don't appear until half a second later. Attempts to correct framing soon produces even worse framing and eventually results in you chasing your tail. The footage looks like it was shot from a boat.

Practice may mitigate this problem, but so far I find shooting with the long lens and the highest level of stabilization very difficult to control.

This is not a Blackmagic Camera problem, this is an angle of view/stabilization algorithm problem