IR Filters for BMPCC

I have a couple of questions regarding IR Filters.

1. I have never used an IR Filter on my Canon and Sony cameras while taking videos outdoors and I don't get the IR concerns that I have read in many of the forum's posts on the BMPCC; and if I do, I can fix it in Post. Does the BMPCC require an IR Filter always when shooting outdoors?

2. While looking at Amazon, B&H, Adorama, and other retailers for IR Filters, some filters are called IR Infrared Filters while others are IR Cut Filters. Is there really a difference besides the value of the filters? What IR filter values do one recommend (720, 760, 950, 1000, etc.)? Finally, if I already have a variable ND filter, do I still need an IR Filter?

Thank you in advance for any expert advice!

Hoya UV IR CUT

1. The IR problem is not hype. It occurs quite often, even indoors. You may be able to fix some of it in post, but it will never be as good as just filtering it out optically. Save yourself time and buy a filter. I keep my IR Cut on at all times.

2. IR Cut is what you are looking for. IR Infrared Filters do something completely different. Variable ND filters actually accentuate the problem so you will absolutely need an IR Cut filter if you are using one.

Thank you for the advice.

Are IR Cut filters the same as UV filters? If so, can I just use UV filters. I have a few of UV's and trying to save on not having to buy an IR Cut if possible. They're expensive. However I saw a Fotga IR filter for less than $20 (http://www.amazon.com/Fotga-Infrared-Infra-red-Filter-760nm/dp/B009RJL3IS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409332301&sr=8-1&keywords=fotga+IR+filter+82mm+760). I'm told by the Fotga rep that this is the same as an IR Cut filter. I'm not sure if it is so if anyone is using a fotga IR, please chime in. Thanks!

Just get the one I mentioned no questions asked people have spent hours testing various ones and the one i listed is the best for BMD cameras

You get what you pay for! Cheap filters cause issues, would you use a $10 UV unknown filter on a $800 lens or get a good multi-coated optical,quality filter? Same goes for IR Cut filters, or any filter, get the best filter for the job, not the cheapest.

IR filters are for IR photography. They block visible light and let in IR light. You don't want these.

You want an IR Cut filter like the Hoya UV / IR Cut:
http://amzn.to/1oqjWVy

That Fotga IR filter you linked to blocks visible light and let's in IR. See how dark it is? An IR cut filter is clear with a slight reflective coating.

IR filters are for IR photography. They block visible light and let in IR light. You don't want these.

You want an IR Cut filter like the Hoya UV / IR Cut:
http://amzn.to/1oqjWVy

Hi Adam,
I just looked at this in AMZN. Looks like this is an ND Filter. I already have a variable ND Filter that is why I am told to just get an IR cut filter. If I am to follow this route, the Hoya is already an ND + UV/IR cut. Hence I only need that and not use my current ND. Correct?
Thanks for your advice.

Sorry wrong link. This is the IR Cut: http://amzn.to/1dFK3JC

Modern sensors "see" IR light. Camera makers filter this light and so you generally don't see it affect your image but as you add ND (that does not block IR) the ratio of IR to visible light alters and the effects become more visible.

The BM camera are more susceptible to IR contamination, so to deal with this you can add an IR cut filter or use IRND.

The effects are most noticeable over 0.9 (ND3).

Are IR Cut filters the same as UV filters? If so, can I just use UV filters. I have a few of UV's and trying to save on not having to buy an IR Cut...

Ellory, IR refers to the portion of the infrared portion of the electromagnetic spectrum of radiation, that portion beyond visible red light; the wavelengths are longer than red light but shorter than radio waves. UV refers to the ultraviolet portion of the electromagnetic spectrum beyond the visible violet light; the wavelengths are shorter than violet but longer than X-rays. So in order to block IR and UV, you normally would use two different filters. It is possible to find one filter that combines both properties and effectively blocks UV and IR radiation.

Rick Lang
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Ellory,

I bought the Hoya UV/IR cut filter, very pleased with the color rendition on my Pocket Camera.

Available on Amazon or BH Photo here in the states.

This forum is populated with some really talented people. I've worked in the motion picture business for many years, and ran my own video production company for 8 years, and these folks know what they're doing.

Cheers,

Gary Morris McBeath

Thank you all for your expertise. Went ahead and order the HOYA UV/IR.

I bought the Hoya UV/IR cut filter, very pleased with the color rendition on my Pocket Camera.

Me too. It has a sligth green cast. Half as strong as through my car windows.

Yes. An easy way to check it is point a remote control towards the camera. If you see the red dot then that's infrared pollution. I checked in my unit and it does need a filter.

Neat idea. Do you know what wavelength is used by infrared remotes?


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They are usually peaking somewhere between 820-960 nm.
850, 890 or 940 are common wavelength peaks for remote controls IR LEDs and the bandwidth can be from 70 to 100nm.

Neat idea. Do you know what wavelength is used by infrared remotes?

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That’s a good range. Thanks!


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Well, take a look at this
https://www.nefal.tv/de/slr-magic-52mm- ... er=SW19079
It works for me, I use it with bmpcc4k and APO hyperprimes lenses
Hope it helps

Fran, I don’t believe the SLR Magic Vari-ND Mark II will attenuate infrared light. I use that with either the SLR Magic Image Enhancer Pro mark II that attenuates infrared light evenly or a conventional IR Cut like the Schneider’s. SLR Magic’s neutral density screw-on filters are IRND filters that attenuate infrared light to the same degree they reduce visible light, but the Vari-ND works differently than a fixed neutral density filter.


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That’s what they told me when I ask for the variable nd
I never tried, but was wandering about to get
One silution for IR. Glad you confirm is not fully working Rick
I probably will get firecrest Format Hitech, but that is
another ligue

Fran, those quotes are accurate for the SLR Magic single density filters (the ten screw-on filters that go from ND 0.3 to ND 3.0. They are IRND filters that suppress or attenuate infrared and often are sufficient.

The SLR Magic Vari-NR do not intentionally manage infrared and I use those in conjunction with a Schneider B+W 486 MRC 86mm screw-on or Schneider 4x4” 715 IR Cut. The B+W is an old design and may have been replaced by a better filter. The Schneider website is good showing you the charts that illustrate the performance of its filters.


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Thanks Rick!
I´ll take a look at Schneider!

Rick, I talked with Schneider dealer here.
They recomend me the 750, because it start at the non visible spectrum, infrared in fact.
Did you experience with the 750? I got the 4x5.6 Lockcircle Irnds but I would try the Schneider
I suposse that the schneider doesn’t give any weird tint at all.

Instead of large and expensive IR only filters it makes more sense to get OLPF/IR filter for this camera. RAWLITE or Mosaic Engineering v2 (not sure if Mosaic still manufacture it or not)

I wish I could find a second hand one for sale to a decent price but they seem sparse.

Fran, most folks here use an IR Cut that cuts around 680nm. Schneider actually makes a 680nm as I recall as well as the 715nm I and a few others use and the 750nm. Different synthetic materials react differently to infrared, some seem to be very purple as Dmitry’s post illustrates and some are mildly affected as Dmitry shows. When I conducted my infrared pollution tests in 2016, I found the 715nm was effective most times, but when I used the B+W 486MRC it would improve colour where it there had been some discolouration.

So I personally would not rely on the 750nm. You’re welcome to try it if you like, it may be that natural sources of infrared pollution such as on vegetation are fine, but I wanted to test both natural and synthetic and found synthetic materials can be more difficult to correct.

The other alternative of modern IRND filters that attenuate infrared may be perfectly adequate at handling infrared pollution particularly for interiors with daylight LEDs and fluorescents, but I’m using tungsten indoors currently and that can generate infrared of course (heat). A SLR Magic Image Enhancer Pro Mark II or the SLR Magic IE Pro IRND (4 stops) may work outdoors. It all depends upon the contents of the scene.


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I talked with Hans Hijmering from Rawlite OLPF and they told me are working on a version for bmccp4k,
so, I will get one for the G1 and the pocket. I think is the easier, cheaper and fast to work on set.

Fran, did Hans say where their filter would cut infrared? 680nm or 715nm or 750nm?


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No, I can ask him. In G1 works pretty good, but not sure about the "nm"
I will ask, hope is in the middle.

My guess is 680-700 nanometers.


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Rick, he told me 680 nm.

Many find that acceptable. It does get rid of the infrared pollution, but it might cut some visible red too.


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For me, the RAWlite OLPF, means work faster and lighter.
I can´t wait to add it!

Are IR Cut filters the same as UV filters?

Nope.

UV and IR sit outside opposite ends of the visible light spectrum.

Screen Shot 2019-09-05 at 8.17.47 PM.png (90.81 KiB) Viewed 11626 times

Jamie, I had not seen that particular graphic but it illustrates why I’m using the Schneider 715 MRC IR Cut rather than the usual 680nm many people use. As we know Schneider now recommends their 750nm IR Cut now; when I purchased the 715nm, their language was cautious about endorsing the 750 so I went with 715.


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