Problem with power external monitor from V-Lock Plate

Hello,

We have bought an Atomos Shogun Inferno to use with our Ursa Mini Pro.
The problem is when we use the power from the camera via the D-Tap from the official V-Lock Plate, the Shogun freeze or work for 2 minutes than it show a black screen. Even if we reboot the monitor, the blackscreen remains.

If we power the monitor with the AC plug (Not from the camera). There is no problem at all.

Is there something not compatible (continuois power, Volt, AMP,...) from the D-Tap of the camera and the Atomos Shogun ?

Thank you

I think you must ask on Atomos Forum, not bmd.... We can know ursa mini pro out from dtap (12 volt) but to know what Kind of power need Inferno and eventual special requirment are simple.to.find on Atomos support. They know their products better than us.

Anyway i powered many different tool from.dtap out, from monitor to adapter for usb and more, no problem.
Have you tried to use a dtap direct from battery (if you have dtap port), just to check if is dtap power or your dtap cable to give you problems?

Inviato dal mio E6653 utilizzando Tapatalk

If you had read whats written onto the D-Tap from the official V-Lock plate, then it would have been clear why it won't work: It says 12V 1.5A. That means 18W and no more. The Atomos Shogun Inferno draws up to 33W:
https://www.atomos.com/shogun-inferno#specs

I'm experiencing a similar problem with an Atomos Shogun 7 and a Blackmagic brand V-mount plate (attached to UMP G2). It would only power on before I attached the SDI, and then it would shut off if I tried to use the Atomos playback or swapped out the Atomos SSD -- probably because these actions drew more power.

However, I don't experience the issue with the same monitor / cables / adapter on my 2nd UMP G2 that has an off-brand V-mount adapter that has a 50w max output -- all this backs up Robert Niessner's assesment that the Shoguns are drawing too much from the branded dtap port and tripping the fuse (?) or simply bugging out.

My question for the forum would be if there is a recommended v-mount plate for more than 18W draw, or if using 'unregulated' 3rd party plates cause long term issues for the UMP G2 down the line.

On the same topic, if when using a splitter to power several devices (Monitor + Transmitter, etc) is it better to plug directly into the v-mount to bypass the battery plate's power circuitry? Is there any risk of a ground loop with the UPM SDI ports and a monitor powered via D-Tap splitter directly into battery?

Thanks in advance, apologies if this has been discussed at length elsewhere.

My question for the forum would be if there is a recommended v-mount plate for more than 18W draw, or if using 'unregulated' 3rd party plates cause long term issues for the UMP G2 down the line.

You can use an 3d party plate like from IDX, Hedbox, Bebob, and others. Just make sure they support the wiring of the Ursa Mini, there are several different plate versions. As long as their Dtap supports higher voltages, you are good to go.

On the same topic, if when using a splitter to power several devices (Monitor + Transmitter, etc) is it better to plug directly into the v-mount to bypass the battery plate's power circuitry? Is there any risk of a ground loop with the UPM SDI ports and a monitor powered via D-Tap splitter directly into battery?

It shouldn't matter where you plug the splitter as long as the total power draw does not exceed the maximum supported power. About the ground loop - I can't say for sure. Personally I prefer to power external monitors separately by another battery.