shebbe wrote:More non-sense. If you've balanced all your shots in relation to eachother there is nothing stopping you from globally changing the overall look and contrast and I find it hard to believe that requires a lot more work.
I gotta say, I've inherited disastrous projects from other people where they literally "painted themselves into a corner" so badly, there was no easy way to undo the damage. In one memorable case, a well-intentioned DP tried to do his own color by using a Normalizing LUT as the first node, followed by a Look LUT as the second node, and then a series of a dozen additional LUTs that stretched and squashed the signal into something they wanted to see for dramatic purposes.
The session was brought to me by the distributor, and I sat down, kind of gasped in horror, and said (probably a little too loudly), "well, this is the Node Tree from Hell," and I blew it all out and redid it all from scratch -- no LUTs, just manufacturer's color science, a contrast curve, some Lift/Gamma/Gain, some sat, and little tweaking. I always save the original look as a version, so I'd switch back and forth and the filmmakers were impressed and not a little embarrassed by the difference. I repaired all the damage in a couple of days and sent them on their way. The distributor later told me "you took this from 'unreleasable' to 'pretty good.'" And that's not bad for a low-budget indie that wasn't that great to begin with.
CST Nodes are enormously helpful if you're working from Camera Raw files. Do that at the very beginning, make sure all the decoding and color science is correct, and you'll basically see what they saw on the set. If they had a Viewing LUT (or a Show LUT), drop that in and use that as a guide. There are pros and cons with using Show LUTs, but if it gets the filmmaker the look they want, go for it. Aim for simplicity and speed, and be ever-mindful of the Order of Node Operations and how earlier nodes can cause terrible damage -- particularly LUTs that crush or clip the signal.