How to get sharp/focused footage and resolve pan blur/strobe

Thank you very much, Adam Roberts. It's very interesting to see what you were able to do and read about how you did it. It sounds like it may be worth investing in learning Davinci Resolve instead of just using Magic Bullet Colorista after all.

When you say you masked the shirt, do you mean you literally took the pen tool in After Effects or a similar program and traced the shirt, then changed the color of just the masked area? I had been wondering if there was a way to make specific colors pop without having to mask shapes.

It's much easier to get sharp focus with an external monitor. The PAN issue sucks, nothing can get rid of it far as I know. I put my pocket on a glidecam and any turning much is like UGGGGGH

What "UGGGGGH" excatly means?

Hi,

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and I am shooting 23.98 fps and not 24p, and I don't know how many hertz power supplies are here in the USA. Can anyone tell me whether I ought to be using 172.8 when shooting at 23.98 in the USA?

Also just made this table:

Thank you very much

No problem.

It's very interesting to see what you were able to do and read about how you did it. It sounds like it may be worth investing in learning Davinci Resolve instead of just using Magic Bullet Colorista after all.

While Colorista is a nice app and many swear by it I've never liked the Magic Bullet interface and tools. You can probably get the same results tho if you put the time in to learn what the tools can do. Simple using the presets is not gonna get you good results.

When you say you masked the shirt, do you mean you literally took the pen tool in After Effects or a similar program and traced the shirt, then changed the color of just the masked area? I had been wondering if there was a way to make specific colors pop without having to mask shapes.

There are many ways of creating masks, or rather "keys", in Resolve. In this case I used to methods to control the area that needed colour changing.

First I used the "Qualifier" which lets you select and area based on the colour (using it's hue, saturation and luminance). I then needed to create a "Power Window", which is a shape drawn around an area, as the Qualifier was also effecting other areas of the image. I drew a rough shape around the shirt area, feathered it's edges and then used the tracker so the shape would follow the movement in the scene.

I then applied my colour correction to just the area that was now "keyed".

Here is my small test.

https://vimeo.com/raadgie

Greetings gentleman,

I find myself on a dilema as well regarding the focusing of the bmcc (2.5k), on my screen I can't seem to even have focus recognition, everything is softer than in a normal "raw recording" camera screen (as for example with a Sony FS700).

I've tried a couple of glasses on the bmcc, and now I'm trying with a panasonic 14mm 2.5, it's still a killer as I can't seem to see what's going on at all on the big screen, rather than a soft image with no line or sign of definition in any sense. (I'm totally new to bmcc, got it on the 25th this month, 3 days ago) I have tried the "exposing to the right" advice, but happens that the screen doesnt get brighter or darker at all so I am not sure if it suppose to show it or not?

Thank you for your kind advices in advance, and if I happen to find a way I will surely post it here to help in whatever is possible.