LG C1 tvs for colour grading

I've just purchased the new LG C1 for a number of reasons.
My question here is would it be decent for colour grading? Such a broad question I know. But would the OLED panel be any good in viewing my URSA 12K footage? From a colour point of view of course

they callibrate to 709 / sdr very well
but there's more than calibration to a refrence screen
look for linearity and macro blocking just above 0 black
some screens are very good
some, not so much
make sure your retailer has favoriable return policies
we bought four screens, 3 x 55", 1x 48"
returned 2x 55"
the other two are very good and are currently used as refrence monitors gradeing 709@SDR for broadcast, and SDR passes on HDR graded films
good luck!

What level are you working at Travis?

Cinema? Broadcast? Independent? Corporate? Home videos? Something else?

The LG OLED series TVs are very good for color grading. I highly recommend them for consumer, prosumer and as secondary/tertiary display in a professional setup. Calibrate it. Understand its limits and you will be fine.

What level are you working at Travis?

Cinema? Broadcast? Independent? Corporate? Home videos? Something else?

I work on the independent, corporate level.

I've just heard in the past that the LG OLED might be a good investment.

The LG OLED series TVs are very good for color grading. I highly recommend them for consumer, prosumer and as secondary/tertiary display in a professional setup. Calibrate it. Understand its limits and you will be fine.

Thanks for the advice, greatly appreciated.

they callibrate to 709 / sdr very well
but there's more than calibration to a refrence screen
look for linearity and macro blocking just above 0 black
some screens are very good
some, not so much
make sure your retailer has favoriable return policies
we bought four screens, 3 x 55", 1x 48"
returned 2x 55"
the other two are very good and are currently used as refrence monitors gradeing 709@SDR for broadcast, and SDR passes on HDR graded films
good luck!

Thanks for the detailed response.
I'll need to get a calibrator for sure! Any suggestions.

Ok so I've got the screen now. What would be a good place to start if you guys were in the same situation. With regards to getting it ready for colour grading? What settings should I be looking at etc. Both in resolve and on the LG side of things. TIA

Ok so I've got the screen now. What would be a good place to start if you guys were in the same situation. With regards to getting it ready for colour grading? What settings should I be looking at etc. Both in resolve and on the LG side of things. TIA

This is for the LG CX but should be similar.

https://daejeonchronicles.com/2021/02/1 ... libration/

Calman improved their software since updating my television. They say the Aurora Color Engine has been built from the ground up by implementing the latest in color science research.

It's recommended you burn in your set for around 100 hours prior to calibration.

And here's Tyler Pruitt's tutorial for LG 2020 displays, SDR.

they callibrate to 709 / sdr very well
but there's more than calibration to a refrence screen
look for linearity and macro blocking just above 0 black!

Yes, I have to say there are issues with the C9 with what I think they call "near-black" situations, like when an image is fading up or fading down. This was solved quite a bit with the CX. Haven't seen the C1 yet, but I'm told it's comparable.

They can be calibrated fairly well for Rec709, provided you get a panel with no uniformity problems.

the two we have show worst case of De <0.8 average, 1.2 max, so yea well under the 2.0 standard
out of the box they were both miles out, and needed callibration, that's not optional

Thanks for the responses guys, it's greatly appreciated!

I'm about to watch the link that was posted. Looks like I'll have to run the television for a 100 hours or so first before attempting to calibrate it.

How will I know if my television will have uniformity issues? Please forgive my ignorance in this subject matter.

See I need a PC as well. Snap!

I've got these ticked, my equipment is a follows. Would this be correct? This is obviously before any calibration.

I shoot on the URSA 12K, colouring on the LG C1 OLED.
My delivery is intended for the net.

Also is this normal for an OLED? Is this the burn in they refer to? It happens within 2 minutes of my screen on. Soon as I move my screen around it disappears.

See I need a PC as well. Snap!

I've got these ticked, my equipment is a follows. Would this be correct? This is obviously before any calibration.

I shoot on the URSA 12K, colouring on the LG C1 OLED.
My delivery is intended for the net.

No you do not need a PC. Download VMware fusion and you’ll be golden.

Running M1 Macs, thought you couldn't run VM on them.
I should be able to find a PC though.

Running M1 Macs, thought you couldn't run VM on them.
I should be able to find a PC though.

Apparently, VMware is currently working on a solution. On their blog, Michael Roy writes, "Development is moving along very well, meeting or exceeding our expectations, but there are challenges and much work still to do... the team is planning to deliver a Public Tech Preview of VMware Fusion for macOS on Apple silicon before the end of this year." Still, it may be a long while before a finished version is ready.

Running M1 Macs, thought you couldn't run VM on them.
I should be able to find a PC though.

Apparently, VMware is currently working on a solution. On their blog, Michael Roy writes, "Development is moving along very well, meeting or exceeding our expectations, but there are challenges and much work still to do... the team is planning to deliver a Public Tech Preview of VMware Fusion for macOS on Apple silicon before the end of this year." Still, it may be a long while before a finished version is ready.

Cheers for the update Jon. I think my screen is having burn in issues. It seems particularly bad when I have any of Apples day/night background images on. Like within 2 minutes there's this awful drop shadow around parts of text.

I think my screen is having burn in issues. It seems particularly bad when I have any of Apples day/night background images on. Like within 2 minutes there's this awful drop shadow around parts of text.

I believe that is Logo Luminance. Look under Settings/OLED Screen Saver/Logo Luminance Adjustment and set it to OFF. There are many adjustments like this that you need to make, including some that require a service remote that costs under $10 on Amazon. Google it.

For a virtual machine, Parallels is running on M1:
https://www.parallels.com/eu/products/d ... quirements

I think my screen is having burn in issues. It seems particularly bad when I have any of Apples day/night background images on. Like within 2 minutes there's this awful drop shadow around parts of text.

I believe that is Logo Luminance. Look under Settings/OLED Screen Saver/Logo Luminance Adjustment and set it to OFF. There are many adjustments like this that you need to make, including some that require a service remote that costs under $10 on Amazon. Google it.

Funny was told to turn it to high.

Soon as I set one of theses images as a background, it gets murky around text.

For a virtual machine, Parallels is running on M1:
https://www.parallels.com/eu/products/d ... quirements

Looks great, only Calman cautions against using it with their calibration software.

“Due to occasional USB driver issues with Parallels, we do not recommend Parallels at this time”.

I think my screen is having burn in issues. It seems particularly bad when I have any of Apples day/night background images on. Like within 2 minutes there's this awful drop shadow around parts of text.

I believe that is Logo Luminance. Look under Settings/OLED Screen Saver/Logo Luminance Adjustment and set it to OFF. There are many adjustments like this that you need to make, including some that require a service remote that costs under $10 on Amazon. Google it.

You sir are a legend! I thought at first I had to leave it on low, then high haha Now when I switch it off, it disappears completely!

Thanks a ton!

I think my screen is having burn in issues. It seems particularly bad when I have any of Apples day/night background images on. Like within 2 minutes there's this awful drop shadow around parts of text.

I believe that is Logo Luminance. Look under Settings/OLED Screen Saver/Logo Luminance Adjustment and set it to OFF. There are many adjustments like this that you need to make, including some that require a service remote that costs under $10 on Amazon. Google it.

You sir are a legend! I thought at first I had to leave it on low, then high haha Now when I switch it off, it disappears completely!

Thanks a ton!

You're welcome... but keep in mind that most of the things you will disable to make the TV suitable for professional use will also increase the risk of burn-in. You need to be very careful with what you leave up on the display. My personal recommendation would be not to use it as a computer display, but rather as a video monitor (using a BMD Ultra Studio, for example)... and don't leave any one particular image on the screen for very long. I usually put a clip of black at the end of my timeline so I can walk away with black on the screen.

My incomplete guide to using a LG OLED as a color grading monitor.

There is no substitute for a Sony X300 (well, actually there is since this was discontinued, but...). That said, you may want to have a second display for clients, or you may be setting up a low budget color bay at home. I will briefly tell you everything I have learned over the last few months. I would only recommend this for Rec709 SDR.

1) You want to buy a 2019 or later LG OLED TV. I purchased the CX48 (LG OLED48CXPUB) for $1,249.99 from Amazon.

2) You will need to send a video signal from your computer to the monitor to bypass any color management issues your computer will introduce. I purchased the Blackmagic Design UltraStudio Monitor 3G Playback Device with Thunderbolt 3 for $115 (plus Thunderbolt 3 cable $40). Keep in mind this will only do HD. You will need the UltraStudio 4K Mini for $1000 to do UHD.

3) Buy a X-Rite i1Display Pro Plus Colorimeter $300. You can get away with the non-Plus version ($40 cheaper), but you won't be able to calibrate the TV for HDR or Dolby Vision, and even though you won't be coloring in HDR, you may want to use the TV to watch Netflix in HDR.

4) Calibrate your computer display using the software included with the colorimeter. Do NOT enable "Use Mac display color profiles for viewers" in Resolve and do NOT bother creating an output LUT using DisplayCAL. Just calibrate your computer display and be done. I enabled the "use F1, F2 keys as standard function keys" option on my iMac to prevent me from changing the screen brightness accidently. Side effect is the F keys in Resolve work without a modifier. Sadly, changing the volume now requires the Fn key.

5) Buy the factory service remote (MKJ39170828) for $8 on Amazon. Watch this video to learn what to do with it

You will want to disable any features on the TV that "save power" or "protect the display from burn-in" as these will obviously be counterproductive towards calibrating the display. YOU will need to now protect your screen from burn-in.

5) Purchase a license for Portrait Display's Calman Color Calibration Software $145. You want the HOME LG version which is hiding under the consumer software tab. This software is not made for consumers, so you will want to follow along with the video that Portrait Display has created. Go to Support -> Resource Center https://kb.portrait.com/help/lg-2018-and-2019-autocal-guide

6) Use pattern generators like greyscale ramp to verify your setup and to make sure your computer display matches your monitor. You can find a perceptual matching chart here https://www.flandersscientific.com/tech-resources/

You will want to angle the TV to be perfectly perpendicular to your eyeballs. I have found that the CX 48's white point shifts towards cyan when you are off axis. I use a tilting ceiling mount $80. Also, I purchased a quart of spectrally flat paint from The Home Depot https://www.flandersscientific.com/tech-resources/ and painted the wall behind the TV. Last, I would recommend bias lighting. I found that 2 meters of FSI Solutions LX1 Bias Lighting $20 was perfect for my 48" TV and the bonus is that I can tell when the TV is on. The black point is so low that you can never really know when the TV is on or not. FSI Solutions has a professional line of 6500K lighting products. I have the $100 desk lamp to light up my keyboard and I am very happy with it (well, honestly, the base could be heavier). https://www.biaslighting.com/

Running M1 Macs, thought you couldn't run VM on them.
I should be able to find a PC though.

VMware Fusion for M1 Macs Now Available as Private Tech Preview

https://www.macrumors.com/2021/09/09/vm ... h-preview/

Until there are drivers there won't be any hardware acceleration of 2D graphics for Windows on an ARM CPU which makes it slow to the point of being unusable.