Is what I'm seeing truly calibrated?

Is what I'm seeing truly calibrated?

I have an HP Z31X Dreamcolor moitor. (Has a built in calibration software and device)
Nvidia GTX 1660 Ti with all of the required Nvidia software installed.

I have had the monitor calibrate itself to the color space setting that I will be using in Resolve, disabled (to the best of my knowledge) the windows color management and I am still at a loss for anything else that I may need to do, to ensure that what I'm seeing is the correct and accurate.

Is there anything that I need to do to ensure that the calibration isn't being influenced by other bits of software? I have yet to find this answer and I'm beginning to think that I am over thinking everything about this "issue" of mine, so I turn to you all.\

I am going to get started on my first short and want to ensure that all of my setup boxes are being checked, as this will be my first entry into festivals.

I appreciate you all.

[Peter Chamberlain]

moved to resolve forum

Is what I'm seeing truly calibrated? I have an HP Z31X Dreamcolor moitor. (Has a built in calibration software and device) Nvidia GTX 1660 Ti with all of the required Nvidia software installed.

I'm not convinced it's really calibrated "reliably" unless you use a 3rd-party probe like a Klein colorimeter and good software like Calman or Light Illusion. I particularly don't think it'll work for features. It's fair to say the Dreamcolors are controversial: I think they're very good computer displays, but not for judging color.

Steve Shaw has some good advice on what a grading display really is at this link:

https://www.lightillusion.com/grading_displays.html

I would never rely on a computer display to judge a final color grade for festivals, or anything else for that matter.

The relatively cheap solution for me is my LG C1 TV hardware calibrated with Calman Home for LG. The average error is 0.4, max error 0.9 after a few hours of calibration with a little less than 3000 points.
Everything less than an error of 2 should be good for professional work.
The TV get its signal from an Intensity Pro 4K.

I am very confident with this setup for SDR broadcast.
Perhaps even HDR broadcast but did not need it yet.
Not sure about DCP delivery for festivals.

I would never rely on a computer display to judge a final color grade for festivals, or anything else for that matter.

The relatively cheap solution for me is my LG C1 TV hardware calibrated with Calman Home for LG. The average error is 0.4, max error 0.9 after a few hours of calibration with a little less than 3000 points.
Everything less than an error of 2 should be good for professional work.
The TV get its signal from an Intensity Pro 4K.

I am very confident with this setup for SDR broadcast.
Perhaps even HDR broadcast but did not need it yet.
Not sure about DCP delivery for festivals.

Thank you very much for the input, I was actually thinking of getting an LG OLED and having it calibrated to remove the default brightness reduction limitation. Im still learning over here.
I have an 55" LG OLED that Im using for my Livingroom TV, is that something that I should be sampling on to see where im at with regard to final product?

Even though the dream color isn't the best to show the final product, what would be the steps to take to help it be the best it can be? I guess thats what Im wondering.

Thank you again!

moved to resolve forum

My Apologies, thank you for moving it.

A good starting point for LG hardware calibration. You need a compatible OLED TV.

I don't quite understand what's to distrust about a 100% DCI-P3 cinema monitor that the HP is? It obviously is not a computer monitor. It has its own calibration hardware and internal LUT. How would buying yet another calibration device ensure it's calibrated "better"? Sure, you could rent another calibration device to proof/confirm the result but that's about it.
Also, if you're on Windows, and you have no device profile listed in colour management, it's considered passthrough.
Not to mention that an IPS monitor is a better representative of a cinema projector than an OLED TV.
Unless... what's that part about brightness? Are you grading for HDR? Then yes, get an OLED.

Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk

I'm not sure why people agonise about calibration and spend a lot on a monitor and gpu and yet seem resistant to buying a relatively cheap Decklink card for £150 that would take half of the pain away instantly - the other half as Marc said is properly addressed by a probe, where the Xrite is very acceptable for video/film professional purposes and again not exorbitant. The free open source Displaycal can produce acceptable results. This is the absolute minimum in professional circles, where no-one would use a gpu for output to the grading monitor, or trust a panel makers auto calibration.

Monitors of course are another cost minefield entirely and whilst you can get acceptable results for SDR fairly within reach, HDR is another huge step up altogether. Consumer Oleds, even the LGs, are not suitable for professional HDR critical colour grading, as they simply cannot reach the required minimum nits, amongst other issues.

I don't quite understand what's to distrust about a 100% DCI-P3 cinema monitor that the HP is? It obviously is not a computer monitor. It has its own calibration hardware and internal LUT. How would buying yet another calibration device ensure it's calibrated "better"? Sure, you could rent another calibration device to proof/confirm the result but that's about it.
Also, if you're on Windows, and you have no device profile listed in colour management, it's considered passthrough.
Not to mention that an IPS monitor is a better representative of a cinema projector than an OLED TV.
Unless... what's that part about brightness? Are you grading for HDR? Then yes, get an OLED.

Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk

Sorry for the wait on the reply, had to take a quick trip to Reno. I am not going to be grading in HDR yet, I know the best for HDR is probably going to be OLED and I may get into that a bit later, for now I am still learning about all the little technicalities and self teaching like a lot of enthusiasts.

And this
"Also, if you're on Windows, and you have no device profile listed in colour management, it's considered passthrough."
Is my main question and I guess I just didnt know how to firmulate it exactly. I know the HP monitor has its own processor, its own calibrator, and loads of additional options which I am learning about and trying to implement if they are needed. I just wanted to be sure that what the monitor is showing me is correct and that I'm not just wasting the calibration aspect of it.

I appreciate your help!

I'm not sure why people agonise about calibration and spend a lot on a monitor and gpu and yet seem resistant to buying a relatively cheap Decklink card for £150 that would take half of the pain away instantly - the other half as Marc said is properly addressed by a probe, where the Xrite is very acceptable for video/film professional purposes and again not exorbitant. The free open source Displaycal can produce acceptable results. This is the absolute minimum in professional circles, where no-one would use a gpu for output to the grading monitor, or trust a panel makers auto calibration.

Monitors of course are another cost minefield entirely and whilst you can get acceptable results for SDR fairly within reach, HDR is another huge step up altogether. Consumer Oleds, even the LGs, are not suitable for professional HDR critical colour grading, as they simply cannot reach the required minimum nits, amongst other issues.

Something I knew nothing about, the Deckline cards. Now you have me going down this rabbit hole... youtube videos galore. I should've joined this form a long long time ago.
I use the gpu because it is built in to the laptop that I am using. The HP is something that I got a little while back on a deal that at the time I couldn't really pass up. Clearance for $400, regardless of its ability to reproduce like 98% of the rec2020 color space it was a very tempting deal for a 4k monitor. Does well for photo editing so far. Perhaps ill use this setup for the time being and venture out a little bit later once I get all of my facts straight and proper research done.

I would never rely on a computer display to judge a final color grade for festivals, or anything else for that matter.

The relatively cheap solution for me is my LG C1 TV hardware calibrated with Calman Home for LG. The average error is 0.4, max error 0.9 after a few hours of calibration with a little less than 3000 points.
Everything less than an error of 2 should be good for professional work.
The TV get its signal from an Intensity Pro 4K.

I am very confident with this setup for SDR broadcast.
Perhaps even HDR broadcast but did not need it yet.
Not sure about DCP delivery for festivals.

Thank you very much for the input, I was actually thinking of getting an LG OLED and having it calibrated to remove the default brightness reduction limitation. Im still learning over here.
I have an 55" LG OLED that Im using for my Livingroom TV, is that something that I should be sampling on to see where im at with regard to final product?

Even though the dream color isn't the best to show the final product, what would be the steps to take to help it be the best it can be? I guess thats what Im wondering.

Thank you again!

Not sure what is meant by default brightness limitation, unless you're referring to ASBL or ABL, for which there's absolutely no need to hire a calibration technician. Instructions for disabling the feature can be found in this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=149345