Wed Aug 01, 2018 11:22 pm
I do film restorations all the time, and the trick is that everybody operating scanners (including Arriscanners, Imagica, Spirits, Cintels, you name it) employ different settings. So there is no "one size fits all" setting that will always make the film look good.
Also, different films from different eras look different: 1960s negatives look different that 1970s, 1970s look different from 1980s, and 1980s negatives look different than 1990s. Kodak stock looks different than Fuji, Fuji looks different than Agfa, and on and on and on. (Anything made prior to that is even harder and potentially more unstable.)
My method is generally to ask the scanning operators to balance the RGB at least a little bit so that a white signal is vaguely in the direction of white, nothing is crushed, nothing is clipped, and there's a bit of range between (say) 20ire and 80ire. Given that, I can generally use Offset/Printer Lights in the first node to further balance the signal, plus the RGB Mixer (with lum mix off) to fine tune the adjustments, followed by a custom curve to restore the exposure and gamma characteristics for viewing in Rec709. Everything after that is subjective, related to scene-to-scene adjustment, windows, and keys. Ideally, we have a previous transfer for reference, and/or we get approval from the filmmakers as to direction and intent.
There is no LUT that can do all this, because it's different with every film... even if the scanner settings stay the same. Emulsions change, opticals change, the lab changes, the film ages over time, and sometimes projects change from 35mm camera negative to interpositive to print. There is no way to solve this except by using good judgement and turning the knobs.
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