URSA live shading ( color correction/grading)

Hi,

I would like to know if there is a method to color correct and grade the URSA with camera control panel and atem software.

I know how to shade broadcast cameras but with the URSA the parameters response are quietly different. The saturation amount or the contrast for exemple. some functionalities are confusing. The 3 wheels, the RGB YRGB slider… and of course the LUT management inside the cam and the 3 parameter film video ext video…

I’m coming from the broadcast world not from the post so I’m not familiar with post color grading…

So if you have tips and tricks or methods to get the best image from an URSA ( broadcast G2…) in live it would be very kind to share…

Regards,

Just do not use the color ball but instead the parameters underneath it for R G B color control.

Also BMD does NOT have a Color matrix so if you are coming from Sony Panasonic or something you really going to find the controls kind of limited. But it's workable as long as you dont mix too many different model cameras together.

Thank you xtreemtec.

I use only URSA Brodcast g2.

Actually I wonder if ther is some rules to respect like a range of gain/iso and values to not overpasses.

In the same spirit is there a golden value for the saturation or contrast.
What is the best between using the lift gain gsmma level or the contrast level?
Is it a good way to apply a LUT and then color correct from this point?
Is it better to work in absolute or in relative ?

Thanks for your tips

Regards

Following since I'm interested as well.

UP

Hi,

Just a feedback, I noticed that when we use gain between 0 and 10 db the image is noisy and there are some artifacts in low light like white stripes or flickering on the image but when we pass 10db of gain we noticed a noisy flash (as the sensor switch to another range) and the image is definitely better… I know that the URSA got 2 native iso… is that the reason? So I’m still interested to have tips and tricks on how to live grade with the URSA.

Cheers

Yup Dual Iso 2nd set kicks in at 10db. And goes back when switching back to 8db. This is the flash / garbage you see when switching between 8 and 10db.

So I’m still interested to have tips and tricks on how to live grade with the URSA.

I'm not a live studio guy, more of an ENG one, but since no one here has answered you on this point and since I too am interested in this, I would suggest you either use the Atem live shading facility, limited though it is compared to high end traditional cameras, with their complex internal matrices or use 3D Luts and Resolve in 'Live' mode a la cine workflows. But I would not personally be inclined to mix the two.

Hi Steve,

Yes I already use the atem software to control cams, I also use Cyanview RCP which is a 3rd party equipment... I'am definitely a studio guy and I'm a little bit lost on the URSA compared to sony HDC line for exemple... My question was more about some setups that works to have the best image in particular conditions... like Never use the gain between 2 and 10 db in low light... always setup directly at 10 db. Between 2 and 10 the image is way grainy and there is artifacts like the good old smearing effect...

this is the type of tips I'm looking for...

Cheers

Following because I too am very interested

Steve Kelly
Salem Heights Church
Salem, OR

ike Never use the gain between 2 and 10 db in low light... always setup directly at 10 db. Between 2 and 10 the image is way grainy and there is artifacts like the good old smearing effect...

I see Boris... because of the dual gain bands, this will be the case, as I think has been mentioned from 10db on you are into the higher gain band, and therefore lower noise than say 8db. So I would set the cameras accordingly. You might find less 'smearing' too in HD (unless you need UHD) since rolling shutter then comes down to 6ms on these cameras vs over 15ms in UHD.