Guys, in general, you have to listen to each other. You are both sides speaking hypotheticals about something that needs work to research and determine if it should be possible. Except, I think Lee is the only person to present any actual evidence of anything. Not one BM employee has come in to present concrete proof it's not possible, which is a bit interesting. Even if they did, you would then see if you could design around that. But, you are having a talk fear with no advancement. Denying without evidence is not helpful too. It's worse than believing with little evidence. Fill in the gaps, then you can say more than maybe.
You need to examine the whole circuit to see if all parts are up to processing the data, before you get into the thermals. Now at 100 fps it likely is over clocked, 0.8 watts is not low. But maybe at 50fps it is 0.2 watts, and lower windowed 2:41:1 and 48 fps (easily shiftable to 50 fps).
lee4ever wrote:Chris Whitten wrote:Also, the OG Pocket can get very hot.
I mostly used mine in Australia. On days of 35c when I was filming the whole body was very hot to touch.
And that was just 25FPS Raw.
On holiday, Jamaica, my bmpcc wasn't as hot as you describe it. It was not hotter as my GoPro. Maybe you have the worse heat sink? See:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=84865&start=50#p471458Can you run your BMPCC 5min and then record 1min (RAW) with closed lens (so nothing is visible/black) and then post here the last DNG file?
Lee and others. Dry air is one of the best thermal insulators known to man. I do a lot of design stuff in a lot of areas, including trying to come up with new thermal insulation schemes. However, warm moist air is definitely not. So 35 degree dry heat is going be hard in the cooling system, but in 30 degree humidity, the moisture in the cooler air is going to pick heat and which it away more. Now the extra 5 degree is also going to produce a higher level of heat build up.
But this leads to some ideas about getting heat out of the body. A new body enclosure of a bare heat conductive metal/alloy, as done for some cameras like gopro, yi 4k+, could yield better thermals. But if you are going that far, the enclave sure could have minature fan venting slots. It could be weather proofed with a second skin venting scheme, where airflow is forced thru the skins to take heat out, where the first skin acts like a heat sink, and is finned inside and structured outside, to that effects. Which means maybe scroll fans. Actually, that would he a rather nice solution. In such a case you could put a high thermal capacity/transfer substance in the case. I don't think there are gases for this, but there is a liquid you can breath used first this, in bags even, and some oils, they use of very high heat applications. I matter of fact, the pocket 4k could have been smaller if they used those techniques, but frankly, it is probably beyond the knowledge of their engineers. I deal with some high end issues and obscure stuff, so look into stuff. Frankly, if BM had made a liquid filled unit, it would have had to be water proof, which means potentially useful for diving, but obviously requiring a lens housing. We are maybe talking original pocket size here. But if you are going to replace the old pocket's case, you might as well look at upgrading the heat sinking components while you got the case apart, if practical.
But let's take a step back, what can be done with the current pocket 2k. Examine where heat is or can be drawn away. A second skin could be a heat skin thinned glove like case, with or without, an air gap where air is forced through. It depends on what works for the enclosure it has. Now, dimpling has a smoothing effect on air flow, reducing resistance, allowing lower powered quieter fan to be used. But, I've just got in mind am entirely new technique, and maybe a passive way of doing it. Anyway, the skin csmmbe finned or structured for heat transfered in and out, and if double skinned a liquid can be drawn around inside, even just moist air, to draw heat away to a fanned venting mechanism.
Anyway, I don't think this old camera is worth doing internal hardware modifications on, or an new enclosure (but if some existing company wanted to do it, that's great). We should concentrate on the soft modifications and then maybe second skin heat mod might be printable on a 3D printer. I should say, that there is newer techniques which allow metal to be printed relatively cheaply (though I wouldn't want to use it to make a lens mount). But hers the catch. You use extrusion of a substance with metal particles in it, so 98% or so metal. It holds together OK as a shape before finalising. But then you have to out it in a kiln to burn off tjr binder sinister things together. But I don't have any place for a kiln here. This technique should suit low cost printers. I was looking into buying something with high precision (10-2.5 micron) a few years ago, looking for the lowest cost metal, when this technique had recently came up. There are other techniques, but this particular one looked promising.