Lens Veratility vs Image Stabilization

So, which do you prefer on your BMCC?

Meant "versatility", did you? I don't see why IS and versatility should be mutually exclusive?

Maybe - Lumix G X Vario 12-35mm f/2.8 Asph. Lens for Micro 4/3?
OIS and constant aperture zoom. Close to $1200 though.

Maybe - Lumix G X Vario 12-35mm f/2.8 Asph. Lens for Micro 4/3?
OIS and constant aperture zoom. Close to $1200 though.

Cinematographer John Brawley has sample footage with that lens and it seems to be a good walkabout lens. The uncorrected distortion doesn't seem to be a problem on the BMPCC as long as you aren't relying on the lens for architectural purposes. Although not as wide as this lens, the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 is faster and sharper and free of worrisome distortion. The Sigma does not have image stabilization though.

Rick Lang
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I guess a better question would be:

Which Kit would you get if you could only get one and why?

MFT Version
$2195 – BMCC plus extended battery
$799 – Sigma: 18-35mm 1.8f or Sigma 18-50mm 2.8 around $300
$425 – MFT to Nikon Speedbooster
$179 – 240gb SanDisk

$3598 total

Lens range with and without Speedbooster: 30mm – 83mm

Or

EF Version (IS maybe beneficial??)
$2195 – BMCC plus extended battery
$799 – Sigma: 18-35mm 1.8f or Sigma 18-50mm 2.8 around $300
$548 – Tokina: 11-16mm
$179 – 240gb SanDisk

$3721 total

Lens range: 26mm – 83mm

I guess a better question would be:

Which Kit would you get if you could only get one and why?

MFT Version
$2195 – BMCC plus extended battery
$799 – Sigma: 18-35mm 1.8f or Sigma 18-50mm 2.8 around $300
$425 – MFT to Nikon Speedbooster
$179 – 240gb SanDisk

$3598 total

Lens range with and without Speedbooster: 30mm – 83mm

Or

EF Version (IS maybe beneficial??)
$2195 – BMCC plus extended battery
$799 – Sigma: 18-35mm 1.8f or Sigma 18-50mm 2.8 around $300
$548 – Tokina: 11-16mm
$179 – 240gb SanDisk

$3721 total

Lens range: 26mm – 83mm

I guess with the speedbooster, the cheaper Sigma lens becomes as fast as the more expensive one...then again the more expensive one becomes even faster!

You might want to check out reports about the Tokina 11-16mm for the EF. There's a whole thread, currently unresolved, about the fact it won't focus to infinity for a lot of people. There's various mods and workarounds but they all seem a bit unsatisfactory given the price, for me at least.

Honestly, I'm leaning towards MFT. It seems a tiny bit more hassle, but much more "future-proofed". That said I'm still not rushing into any decisions.

Nikon Speedbooster is also required if you want aperture control on the Sigma.

Nikon Speedbooster is also required if you want aperture control on the Sigma.

Not true. Just a Nikon G to MFT adapter.

If you intend doing handheld work with the BMCC then IS is very useful as it absorbs the jitters that are very noticeably with the rolling shutter. With practice you can improve your technique to reduce this tho.

The MFT version with the speed booster does open up a lot of nice fast and wide options tho. Add a standard Nikon G to MFT adaptor and you double your lens collection.

I have the EF version and with the price drop I'm very seriously considering adding the MFT version.

Nikon Speedbooster is also required if you want aperture control on the Sigma.

Not true. Just a Nikon G to MFT adapter.

Sorry, I meant Nikon Speedbooster vs the upcoming Canon one, which reportedly doesn't have aperture control.

Adam, good point on Image Stabilization. A couple of questions on IS:

1. Do you have a favorite IS lens(es) for your BMCC EF?
2. Is there a handheld focal length where IS starts to become important, or is it valuable at all lengths?
3. Does IS make sense on a tripod (maybe at long focal lengths)?

IS is always a tradeoff between more stable images and more precise pans. For handheld IS is a lifesaver, especially with RS sensors, yet on a tripod i'd like to switch off IS for wide and normal shots.

... 3. Does IS make sense on a tripod (maybe at long focal lengths)?

Sometimes can be necessary with long focal lengths if the tripod is "too lightweight" for the conditions (such as wind), or if the floor/ground/platform is vibrating.

Generally you don't use IS when doing camera moves, especially if the start/end of the move (pan/tilt/slide) will be included in the edit, because the IS tends to "fight" the move's start/end motion and produce an undesirable result. But it depends on the circumstances.

Since BMD cameras don't currently include a menu item to disable lens IS, it's best to use a lens with a physical switch for turning IS on/off as required.

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Peter good to know about the pans with IS. I always wondered about that. Coming from a 5D Mark II I guess I am a little conflicted on the choice of MFT and EF mainly for the IS. Normally, I always use a tripod, but there are times where IS has come in handy as a last minute choice to do a hand held shot.

I guess the best fix would be that mythical MFT active mount for the BMCC ... :long sigh:

Honestly, I'm leaning towards MFT. It seems a tiny bit more hassle, but much more "future-proofed". That said I'm still not rushing into any decisions.

You'll have to let me know what you decide. I am leaning toward the MFT also ... damn that IS.

Here's a good example of hand held MFT no IS (obviously)



And then EF IS handheld shots



It seems like a big difference for someone possibly looking to do hand held. Like it was mentioned above technique is key and gets better with time.

1. Do you have a favorite IS lens(es) for your BMCC EF?

I've used the Canon EF 24-105 f4 L and the EF-S 17-55 f2.8.

The 17-55 is much more useful. It works well on a run n gun set-up.

2. Is there a handheld focal length where IS starts to become important, or is it valuable at all lengths?

I've shot hand held with Zeiss ZF.2 primes. Both 50mm and 35mm. It's doable for dialogue scenes where you are focused on a person talking and there is not much movement but it gets messy trying to follow someone around a room. That's when the IS lens comes in handy.

The wide you go the less noticeable the jitter. If you keep your movements fluid it's also less noticeable.

3. Does IS make sense on a tripod (maybe at long focal lengths)?

As others have said, turn off IS if you are panning but on more static long focal lengths on a weak tripod its helpful to kill tripod vibrations.

As others have said, turn off IS if you are panning but on more static long focal lengths on a weak tripod its helpful to kill tripod vibrations.

My Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L has two settings to its IS. I occasionally shoot convention speakers from the back of ballrooms and use the #2 setting (I *think* that is horizontal correction only and #1 is horizontal + vertical) all the time. It really smooths out the pans and I haven't noticed any seeking or other weirdness at the end of a pan.

As others have said, turn off IS if you are panning but on more static long focal lengths on a weak tripod its helpful to kill tripod vibrations.

My Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L has two settings to its IS. I occasionally shoot convention speakers from the back of ballrooms and use the #2 setting (I *think* that is horizontal correction only and #1 is horizontal + vertical) all the time. It really smooths out the pans and I haven't noticed any seeking or other weirdness at the end of a pan.

Good point, Marc.

Concerning the BMPCC pocket cam: Many (all?) Panasonic Lumix MFT lenses with IS include a similar feature, but the IS "modes" are turned on/off via the Lumix cam's menu. Unfortunately, the BMPCC apparently doesn't have an IS menu. (And the BMCC-MFT doesn't support digital MFT lenses with IS at all.)

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As others have said, turn off IS if you are panning but on more static long focal lengths on a weak tripod its helpful to kill tripod vibrations.

My Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L has two settings to its IS. I occasionally shoot convention speakers from the back of ballrooms and use the #2 setting (I *think* that is horizontal correction only and #1 is horizontal + vertical) all the time. It really smooths out the pans and I haven't noticed any seeking or other weirdness at the end of a pan.

Yeah good point. Some lenses do have a tripod mode for the IS.