BMCC6K Facts and Findings

the ergonomics of the Pyxis line looks great and it would be amazing if BMD also released a camera that's more of a mash-up of that and the P6K Pro as that would be perfect for my (and many other people's, I'd imagine) use case.

I don't think people are buying on use case or needs, as much as chasing trends like full frame, anamorphic. The P6KPro and P6KG2 are available now with the dual ISO sensor at attractive prices.

The article posted above about Blackmagic's profits reveals some interesting information about the company's workings. Blackmagic buys a big pile of parts then uses them for several products. Their inventory is tied up in sensors and processors not cameras and boxes. We've seen this repeated over the years as the same, or very similar, sensors are used in several different camera bodies.

The Fairchild sensors were iterated in both the UMP and the Micro Cinema enabling higher frame rates over their predecessors. I can see the recent price reductions of the 6KFF as an attempt to sell through stock of a fairly underwhelming sensor to make room for a FF G2 sensor or perhaps a completely different iteration. The Pyxis implementation is likely the 6KFF sensor with the Studio cam's processor as they feature very similar IO.

Assuming the Pyxis, with the same sensor as the 6KFF, would yield a drastically or even discernible difference doesn't jive with reality. It there a difference in IQ between the 3 distinct bodies that use the MFT sensor? The smallest of which is the size of a tennis ball and the largest being the Studio cam. What about the S35 6K sensor? Does the UBG2 image differ in any substantial way over the Pocket 6k Pro? If so I'm not hearing anybody talk about it.

Good Luck

The response has been underwhelming because people obsess what it can't do well. If that's the group of film makers BMD is marketing to, then clearing out excess inventory before becoming stale makes sense financially but doing it to make room for a new generation $1500 6KFFG2 cameras to people incapable of making nice images not so much.

The look in Open Gate of Nisi Athena primes 14mm, 35mm, 85mm on BMCC 6K FF

Looking for some advice regarding my SanDisk Extreme 2 TB SSD. When I got my BMCC 6K, I used this drive for the first couple shots. I didn't realize until I looked it up later that the approved SSD for the FF is the Extreme *Pro*. After awhile, the screen on the 6K would freeze and only unlock if I removed the SSD.

Which fine, whatever, I was using the wrong drive, but now the drive won't work even on the Blackmagic 4K that I used to use it on all the time. If I try to format it on either camera, it just stays stuck on formatting screen for hours on hours. If I format it per the BM specifications on my Windows machine, it either A) doesn't register on the 4k B)registers on 6K FF but locks up the screen and starts the whole cycle again.

Any advice?

Any advice?

When I bought my T7 Shield drives I very nearly made the mistake of buying the vanilla T7 because I assumed that the only tangible difference was the rubber coating, so I sympathize. It sounds like you're well beyond any kind of return window so all I can tell you is that this is a teachable moment on the importance of reading the recommended media lists carefully before buying. Beyond using it for some other purpose, like moving around data between editing stations or something, I'm not sure there's much you can do here. Careful though; Sandisk SSDs have had a pretty bad track record lately and have been causing a lot of issues for users.

Any advice?

When I bought my T7 Shield drives I very nearly made the mistake of buying the vanilla T7 because I assumed that the only tangible difference was the rubber coating, so I sympathize. It sounds like you're well beyond any kind of return window so all I can tell you is that this is a teachable moment on the importance of reading the recommended media lists carefully before buying. Beyond using it for some other purpose, like moving around data between editing stations or something, I'm not sure there's much you can do here. Careful though; Sandisk SSDs have had a pretty bad track record lately and have been causing a lot of issues for users.

In my case it's not such much that I bought the wrong drive; it's a drive that was on the Pocket 4K approved list and that I've owned and used with that camera for over a year with no problem.

My frustration is that even just trying out the drive on the 6K FF has seemingly broken my ability to use it on the Pocket 4K like I used to.

Formatted in which one?

Why are there people even think the Pyxis might have better or different IQ than the BMCC6K, do you think BMD would not market that fact? For one it would boost Pyxis sales.

Sanagi: The Cycle of Things

Shot with BMCC 6K FF and Leica R's (24, 50 and 90mm)
Graded with Nostalgia LUTs

(Guido Pezz, Argentine director and cinematographer based between Italy and Australia)

Side by Side: BMPCC 6K vs BMCC 6K (Nick Brengle - Arlington, Virginia, USA)

BMCC 6K Full Frame in Open Gate 3:2
Sigma 24-70mm F/2.8

6K FF has more 3D pop!

6K FF has more 3D pop!

more like inconsistent testing. And why did he use Dehancer, it will alter the images differently?

6K FF has more 3D pop!

There is absolutely nothing uniquely intrinsic to a particular frame size; particularly the relatively closer difference between Super 35 and FF, than many others. It is little matter to match the DOF characteristics between the two, by varying focal length and ƒ stops, between them. It's a marketing must have; more than it is a really going to make your movie better. Super 35 is a larger frame than we had on most of the finest movies from the first 100 years of cinema.

In any case, it's all a bit wasted if you're just going to film yourself in your bedroom.

Sanagi: The Cycle of Things contains scenes of extreme contrast, night shots that in my opinion are quite pleasing. I don't note any smearing or noise problems in this video. This is how you do it. Thumbs up.

I agree, Cycle of Things is very well shot and a great example of what the C6K can do.

That said, I think it's only one side of the coin for evaluating a camera, and direct comparisons in unflattering situations are also necessary. My critique of the C6K was only that compared with previous Pockets, it can't be pushed as far.

Sanagi: The Cycle of Things

Shot with BMCC 6K FF and Leica R's (24, 50 and 90mm)
Graded with Nostalgia LUTs

(Guido Pezz, Argentine director and cinematographer based between Italy and Australia)

I would consider this low light. And I think the blacks, color, dynamic range and contrast all look really nice in this example. I can't imagine needing or expecting any more than this. But I suppose different people shoot in different ways and perhaps different standards. Hence, I guess why we have different options - the old different tools for different tasks cliche.

Aranui: The Seventh Island

Directed, shot and edited by Guido Pezz in the Marquesas, French Polynesia, 2023

Shot with BM 6K FF and DZO Vespid Primes

Not sure I'm a fan of his nostalgia lut.

6K FF has more 3D pop!

translation: the 18-35 is better corrected and doesn’t vignette as much. If the 18-35 aperture was opened more to match the dof, along with a vignette added in post, the p6k would look exactly the same.

Fwiw: the inherent vignette of the FF lens looks nice.

Just a quick question... well, maybe not that quick.

If I wanted to spend some money on a new hobby and get a camera to learn a little bit of everything about framing shots and focus and lenses and so on, and say the budget is under 3-4k, would this camera be a good buy with the current sale price? I understand that there are other costs like lenses and maybe a second battery, storage and so on.

Rather than a 'yes'/'no' if you prefer just tell me what to consider.

Any input welcome of course.

I’d rather suggest to get the 4K BM’P’CC for a new hobby.
Why? Lenses for S-35 are much cheaper, think second-hand Canon ones, which are plenty in the market. This way you have more money left for batteries, audio, lights, tripod. Last, but not least for your computer, in case it’s not up to the task.
Focusing on the smaller sensor is easier too, remember the cameras by BM have no continuous AF.

I’d rather suggest to get the 4K BM’P’CC for a new hobby.
Why? Lenses for S-35 are much cheaper, think second-hand Canon ones, which are plenty in the market. This way you have more money left for batteries, audio, lights, tripod. Last, but not least for your computer, in case it’s not up to the task.
Focusing on the smaller sensor is easier too, remember the cameras by BM have no continuous AF.

Counterpoint: for less than $300 more than the P4k, the 6k full frame camera offers a better sensor, MUCH better screen (articulating, too), an extra XLR input, can run 4k S35 mode, and doesn’t require a speedbooster (extra glass) for decent lenses.

You are right as long as these are manual lenses.
It all depends on the shooting style, there is no single perfect camera.

Second that as a good starting place that is relatively inexpensive but full-featured in terms of your options. Your BRAW clips can easily produce beautiful results with little effort in DaVinci Resolve Studio that is included with the camera. You can start very modestly in terms of rig and lenses as you learn. The tripod and fluid head can easily cost more than the camera but possibly you can defer that purchase as you begin your hobby.

If you want to shoot mostly in situation where AC power is not available and you must rely on batteries, you may want to add the optional battery grip to extend your shooting day. In any case you’ll need more batteries. If you will have easy access to AC power, that makes everything easier and economical.

You’ll need some filters, especially an infrared cut filter or a few IRND filters that combine neutral density filtration with attenuation of infrared light. A caution on buying lenses: when you research lenses that interest you, note the maximum filter size of those lenses and consider buying screw-on filters that are larger than that used by your lenses. A step-up ring is a cheaper solution rather than needing to but new filters. To illustrate: let’s say the largest lens you like has a 67mm thread for filters. Buy filters that have 77mm or 82mm threads and you may never have to replace your filters as you end up buying larger lenses. My first prime lens was 67mm and most of my filters are 82mm; even so I also have some 86mm for my latest lens purchases.

Second that as a good starting place

Thanks for your input. Which are you seconding though? BMPCC or BMCC6k? It wasn't clear to me.

I’d rather suggest to get the 4K BM’P’CC for a new hobby.
Why? Lenses for S-35 are much cheaper,

Thanks for the pointers. How much of a difference are we talking about comparing s-35 to Full Frame? Or is it the L-mount?

Counterpoint: for less than $300 more than the P4k, the 6k full frame camera offers a better sensor, MUCH better screen (articulating, too), an extra XLR input, can run 4k S35 mode, and doesn’t require a speedbooster (extra glass) for decent lenses.

I'm beginning to wonder if I opened a can of worms... lol

Thanks for your input.

Mattias, apologies if my post wasn’t clear. I think the BMPCC4K is a good place to start your hobby. But it’s not a mistake to go with the latest technology if you decide the BMCC6K is your preference. I shoot with the BMPCC4K and enjoy what it can do with a minimal budget. If you want to pursue the best image you can, the BMCC6K would be your choice.

Well, you opened a can of worms for sure

Anyway, the 6K that got quite cheap now is the model without NDs and a fixed Canon EOS mount. You'll definitely need to buy some NDs for daylight exteriors. But then, these are more reliable than the internal ones in the 'Pro' and if you choose wisely, they can be used on other lenses and another camera, as Rick explained.

The EOS mount will limit you in terms of adaption of vintage lenses, but there are tons of Canon ones in the market now that Canon went mirrorless too.

Maybe it would help most if you describe the type of filming you are dreaming of. Do you have a background in photography?

Isn’t the 6K FF the one that’s on sale?
I see it’s back to normal on the Blackmagic site but resellers still have the $1,575 price.

Mattias, apologies if my post wasn’t clear. I think the BMPCC4K is a good place to start your hobby. But it’s not a mistake to go with the latest technology if you decide the BMCC6K is your preference. I shoot with the BMPCC4K and enjoy what it can do with a minimal budget. If you want to pursue the best image you can, the BMCC6K would be your choice.

Cool. Thanks.

Maybe it would help most if you describe the type of filming you are dreaming of. Do you have a background in photography?

No background in photography or videography. Let's just say that cinematography fascinates me and with cameras being so cheap these days (relatively speaking) I just got the urge to get one to play around with (I don't have a car or any expensive hobbies... nor kids). Perhaps I'll get one, perhaps not. Perhaps I'll play with it for a year and sell it at a loss and write off the lost money as "fun time", perhaps I'll keep it.

I'd like to just get a better understanding of what makes shots look the way they do. I get that I could learn framing with a smartphone camera, but the camera in my current phone isn't that great, and getting a new phone with a great camera system is still a decent chunk of money... and there probably is cheaper for learning how different lenses work. I'm just wondering exactly how much I would save getting something else compared to this camera.

And bear in mind that I'm not looking to rig this up since that would be way overkill.

Isn’t the 6K FF the one that’s on sale?
I see it’s back to normal on the Blackmagic site but resellers still have the $1,575 price.

Correct.

Isn’t the 6K FF the one that’s on sale?
I see it’s back to normal on the Blackmagic site but resellers still have the $1,575 price.

Correct, with L mount.

But that mount might be a bit limiting for a newcomer.
You'd need either manual lenses with a dumb adapter (which could be cheap), or pretty expensive solutions if AF is desired.
I think my initial suggestion is still valid. A dear friend, who switched from classic analog Arri to the BM 4K is still getting his work into festivals…

But that mount might be a bit limiting for a newcomer.
You'd need either manual lenses with a dumb adapter (which could be cheap), or pretty expensive solutions if AF is desired.
I think my initial suggestion is still valid. A dear friend, who switched from classic analog Arri to the BM 4K is still getting his work into festivals…

You’re not at all wrong.

I have both and the BMCC6k is MUCH better on paper—but either can make outstanding images.

Comparison between BM 6K FF vs Sony A7siii (Nate's Film Tutorials)
Lens: Helios 44-2 58mm f/2

"Nikon Zf - Dynamic Range (RED Komodo / Blackmagic 6K Full Frame / Canon R5C Comparisons)"
(Joshua Sattin - Raleigh, North Carolina)

BM 6K FF looks better than RED Komodo

BM 6K FF looks better than RED Komodo

that's not that hard though

Just wanted to share a picture I took with the BMCC6K and graded in Resolve. Unfortunately, I really had to downsample and crank up the JPEG compression to upload it. Still looks pretty good though, I think.

Still 2024-06-04 182848_1.43.13_smaller.jpg (1013 KiB) Viewed 10289 times

Thanks for the lovely still. What lens and exposure was this?

Thanks for the lovely still. What lens and exposure was this?

I'm not sure what the exposure was because I was using a manual lens: my grandfather's old Minolta 58mm MC Rokkor-PG F/1.2. The BMCC6K is the first camera I own that can properly use his lenses so I've been trying them out lol

A long time ago in a universe far far away, I had a Minolta but I didn’t keep it. Regrettably.

My first camera was a two eyed box, and the second a Minolta.
And this is the only lens you can ‘Leitax’ to EOS. It’s a nice portrait length on S-35.

A long time ago in a universe far far away, I had a Minolta but I didn’t keep it. Regrettably.

I still have my grandfather's Minolta in it's case in the closet. Don't know which one it is but I think he got it in the early 70s.

Mine was mid-to-late 70s I believe.

I took a video yesterday, in spite of its low light performance, I still think the BMCC6K is a great camera.

As far as I remember, I mostly used 1250 iso for interiors, bathrooms 3200, expect for one room I had to crank iso up to 20k. Heavy NR couldn’t salvage the image nor could it preserve the colors.

With an adequate external light, the camera is a real performer.

Good job.
Two suggestions:
- shots 2-5 are basically the same and it's too long. Kill your idols and chose just 1 or 2.
- the bedroom looks a little spooky. Maybe you can get rid of the green tint a little more? For cases like this, bring a light that you can bounce off the ceiling. You probably want to get a faster wide lens, too.

Did some setting accidentally switch, like shutter speed or aperture? It doesn't look like a scene where you'd
need 20K ISO with the practical lights and transparent curtain?

Good job.
Two suggestions:
- shots 2-5 are basically the same and it's too long. Kill your idols and chose just 1 or 2.
- the bedroom looks a little spooky. Maybe you can get rid of the green tint a little more? For cases like this, bring a light that you can bounce off the ceiling. You probably want to get a faster wide lens, too.

Did some setting accidentally switch, like shutter speed or aperture? It doesn't look like a scene where you'd
need 20K ISO with the practical lights and transparent curtain?

Many thanks for your constructive comment, I appreciate it!

I thought so too, however, I wanted to focus on the view and terrace since it influences buying decision for most of people. Not to mention that I couldn't shoot videos of the garden and pools due to privacy and data protection rules. I should have included exterior shots, maybe a walk to the beach nearby, it was hot and I was in a rush. It took me 45 mins to take all shots, usually it takes me more because I like to do things in tranquility and don't like to be rushed up

the room was extremely dark and curtains were stuck so I couldn't open them fully. Adjusting tint was almost impossible due caching after NR treatment. I'm still learning how to correctly utilize NR, it's another learning curve. It looks like my MBP is struggling to keep up with heavy NR.

100W LED bouncing off ceiling would be enough?

I forgot to enclose recording settings used, 6K 2.4:1, Q0, f4.2, 12mm, 60fps, 216 deg (image flickered at 180 deg), used gray card to WB all shots. A faster lens could help, but to find a wide one will be expensive. If I shoot at lower fps, would that help a bit?

I'm willing to share the bedroom's raw video if anyone is interested in giving it a try.

Once again, thank you Michel.

"Nikon Zf - Dynamic Range (RED Komodo / Blackmagic 6K Full Frame / Canon R5C Comparisons)"
(Joshua Sattin - Raleigh, North Carolina)

BM 6K FF looks better than RED Komodo

At 7:30 in a side by side comparison at -5 stops, the Nikon ZF shows a heavy medium green tinge on most of the grey background and on the subject's cheek.

Nikon ZF vs BMCC6K -5 Stops

BMCC6K-5Stops0730A.png (275.1 KiB) Viewed 9792 times

In comparison, at -5 stops, the BMCC6K shows slight green banding.

At -5 stops, here is the Nikon ZF vs the RED Komodo

Nikon ZF vs RED Komodo -5 stops

NikonZFvsKomodo-5Stops0827.png (192.73 KiB) Viewed 9761 times

"Nikon Zf - Dynamic Range (RED Komodo / Blackmagic 6K Full Frame / Canon R5C Comparisons)"
(Joshua Sattin - Raleigh, North Carolina)

BM 6K FF looks better than RED Komodo

At 7:30 in a side by side comparison at -5 stops, the Nikon ZF shows a heavy medium green tinge on most of the grey background and on the subject's cheek.

BMCC6K-5Stops0730A.png

In comparison, at -5 stops, the BMCC6K shows slight green banding.

At -5 stops, here is the Nikon ZF vs the RED Komodo

NikonZFvsKomodo-5Stops0827.png

I just consider BM 6K FF to have better overall image quality than RED Komodo OG, but not necessarily better latitude.

“This film was shot with BM 6K Full Frame in Braw 8:1 compression. I had used Canon 24-105 f4 L IS MK1 lens mounted via Sigma MC-21 EF to L Mount adapter, and the K&F variable ND Nano 8-128. Shot over one evening at Stanpit Marsh Nature Reserve in Christchurch, Dorset.” (Live My Journey, UK)

The images coming from the BM 6K FF camera have something special, I like to use the term ‘3D-pop’ to refer to it, the sort of three-dimensional quality of the images that this particular FF sensor combined with the camera hardware and Davinci color science can produce (in good hands of course).

In my opinion, most YouTube testers these days (e.g. CVP, CineD, Gerald Undone, Josh Sattin, etc) are too much focused on dynamic range and latitude. They are not paying enough attention to overall image quality, and testing it, hopefully, in real world scenes, not just basic charts. Things like color separation, 3D-pop, highlight roll-off, detail rendition, motion rendition, and not just dynamic range and latitude.

That's one of the reasons why, I believe, they haven't realized how good and unique (specially the 3D pop quality) are the images coming from the BM 6K FF, and that's maybe why they are so satisfied with the images coming from mirrorless cameras and the Sony FX line (which I still consider videoish).

It seems that for them, is the camera performs well in the charts (dynamic range, latitude, resolution) it’s a good camera. I think Gerald and some other testers don't even take the cameras out any more, they are more interested in specs and lab results than how the images look and perform in the real world. CVP shows some real world footage but typically no more than a couple of shots that last three seconds each: it’s like they feel embarrassed to show scenes that last too long (just to appreciate) and they prefer to be commenting all the time (specially the guy at CVP who doesn't stop talking, very fast, the entire video). And Josh is always shooting himself indoors with the classic and boring ‘open window on the back’ scene, to evaluate dynamic range, and a second shot outside, also of himself, to check the same and eventually, skin tones.

Don't take me wrong, they are all competent and generous people doing a nice contribution with their tests and I am grateful for that; but the lack of evaluation of other image characteristics like color separation, highlight roll-off, rendering of reflections, details or motion, 3D-pop characteristics, etc., concerns me because nobody is doing it differently as far as I know (except for some loners who post more interesting real world test scenes and camera comparisons once in a while but not consistently).

I think those comments about the other testers and camera brands are slightly unfair. Some good advice I received is to do my best with it, but not fall in love with my own work.