Short Cable USBC to HDMI adapter confirmed to work w/Pyxis

So I just got this adapter/cable from Amazon for my Pyxis.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GC1K9TF

Other than the need to use a right-angle adapter to clear the built-in PL mount locking "tabs", this cable is only 11" end to end vs. the much longer one confirmed to work previously.

Even if you use an SDI monitor, you should grab one of these just in case you mess up your SDI port on a job since you can just plug any common HDMI monitor or even a TV into your Pyxis.

Hi Corey,

I have a USB-C to male HDMI cable by this manufacturer that I've tried using with my Atomos Ninja V with no luck. I've tested the monitor with other cameras and have tried other cables so the issue is definitely with the PYXIS. What monitor are you using with the PYXIS?

Thanks,

Aran

So I had a little time on the weekend to "customize" the USBC to HDMI adapter.

First, I carefully removed with a razor blade the cable's strain relief area careful not to cut into the cable's sheathing material. I slid a 5/8" thick-walled heat shrink tubing over the USB end. Got my heat gun and carefully heated up the tubing so that I could bend the cable in the exact position I wanted to clear the PL mount "ears" on the Pixis.

Next, I needed to make it a screw locking cable. Luckily I had a broken locking cable to scavenge the screw and the small plastic extension from.

First, I measured using a micrometer the distances from the bottom of the USB metal connector to the top of the screw centered on my old Blackmagic locking cable that was broken. Then I carefully cut the plastic "extension" used to hold the screw and test-fitted the screw/plastic extension on the HDMI adapter's USB-C plug and determined how much I needed to shave/file off the plastic extension to match the height of the original screw location.

After getting the height right, I crazy glued (using quick set spray) and test-fitted the cable/screw on the camera. crazy glue doesn't work well with heat shrink but is good for test fitting before it releases. After I was sure I had the right position (1st try worked because of all my measuring), I then heat-shrunk the screw/plastic extension into place.

Here are pics of the final cable and the heat shrink I used. Ignore the quality of the pictures, I was rushing in a room with very bad light to do a final test of the cable.

Customized locking USBC to HDMI for Pyxis w/PL mount

IMG_2602@0.5x.jpg (709.18 KiB) Viewed 1656 times

Customized locking USBC to HDMI on PL Mount Pyxis

IMG_2603@0.5x.jpg (865.09 KiB) Viewed 1656 times

[Kristian Lam]

We don't do anything different from the front Viewfinder output of the PYXIS 6K when you use one of these adapters. The adapter has a chip that does the conversion from DP to HDMI.

So if it works with your HDMI display, that's great.

If it doesn't work, the issue is most likely the interfacing between the adapter cable and the display. You will find that some displays will work with the same adapter that other displays don't too.

Hi Corey,

I have a USB-C to male HDMI cable by this manufacturer that I've tried using with my Atomos Ninja V with no luck. I've tested the monitor with other cameras and have tried other cables so the issue is definitely with the PYXIS. What monitor are you using with the PYXIS?

Thanks,

Aran

Hi, I guess you are new to the forum so they just "released" your post.

I have tested the adapter with the DJI Raveneye transmitter from my Ronen RS 4 pro, a samsung TV and a Viltrox DX-550 Pro. I was planning on getting the Pyxis Monitor, but the kit has been delayed. Both Adorama and B&H thought they would start shipping Nov 30th, but now they have no estimate, so I grabbed the Viktrox from Amazon as a backup monitor because it can run off USB power from my NANU-U98X to avoid the weight of an extra battery on my rig (the big reason I wanted the Pyxis monitor). The Viktrox just has two cables vs the one for the Pyxis Monitor, and obviously does not allow controlling the Pyxis via it's touch screen.

One thing with the Viltrox I noticed is that it must be powered on after the Pyxis image starts showing on the side monitor to sync and get a signal. The Raveneye doesn't care, and generally because of the time for the Raveneye to start the Wifi network, I power it on way before the Pyxis.

I hope that helps...

Thanks for the insight – it's frustrating that the performance out of the USB-C port is so dependent on the cable, I'd definitely buy a USB-C->HDMI cable if BMD sold one, working my way through a load of different cables on Amazon is not ideal. Ended up buying an SDI cable and a converter and mounting it to the cheese plate on top of my rig. Again not ideal, but needs must!