firmware 4.0

Peaking not working for me, no matter what color or sensitivity I choose, It only peaks in white and is hardly visible at all.

I correct myself, now peaking is very weak for me also, I don't know why.

Was fine at first, I just did another test and it's barely visible. We should email it ^^

same here.
i tried all the different parameters for it and it's barely visible.

I just purchased the usb dock($60). Once it gets here I'll update the lens FW and report back.

Same here. i just overnighted a dock.
I will check tomorrow and report back.

Just one desire: peaking color has been changed to red. We would all appreciate if we could choose between red, green and maybe white or blue.
Thanks!

Hi, go to monitor->all. You can choose red/green/blue/white/black OR peaking instead of coloured lines.

I can only monitor peaking in white no matter what color I change it to.

Peaking not working for me, no matter what color or sensitivity I choose, It only peaks in white and is hardly visible at all.

Same with me.

New Record Features
Added additional ProRes resolutions for URSA Mini 4.6K including 4.6K 16x9, 4.6K 2.4:1, 4K DCI, 3K Anamorphic, 2K 16x9 and 2K DCI.
Added additional RAW resolutions for URSA Mini 4.6K including 4.6K 2.4:1, 4K 16x9, 3K Anamorphic, 2K 16x9 and HD.

Any reason why none of those resolutions are available on the 4k?

What Russell said. Anyone have any insight into this?

The 4.6K sensor is windowing many of these resolution options. Window mode in the 4K sensor is more restricted from what I understand. But ProRes codec could be downscaled from full 4K sensor, I would think, and added that way perhaps.

Interesting, thanks Denny.

I have some EF Mount DSLR lenses that don't seem to have this issue, but I'm curious to know about this updating of lens firmware because it's the first I'm really hearing about it.

Say my 11-16 Tokina for example. Am I able to update it's firmware the same way you do the Sigma? And if so, where do I find that firmware and how do I update it. My 11-16 Tokina iris can be controlled via 4.0, as can my other Canon DSLR lenses.

Tim, useually Canon, Panasomic and Olympus lens firmware updates require a Canon, or Panny/Oly camera (respectively) to update the lens firmware. Sigma Art lenses use the Sigma "Dock" so a native camera body is not required. You,should be able to,find any update info and instructions on Canon website.
Cheers

My Sigma 18-35 is able to change Iris on UM4.6K. Lens is over a year old. Never updated lens firmware or anything... It goes from 1.7 - 16 stop on camera...

Vf stays on much longer
I have problem to enable Focus assist

My Sigma 18-35 is able to change Iris on UM4.6K. Lens is over a year old. Never updated lens firmware or anything... It goes from 1.7 - 16 stop on camera...

There goes the firmware theory. Sounds like it's a crapshoot.

Hey Dudes!
So exiting this update!!! Played around the whole day with it!
Nice features i did not expect!
BUT: I did some testshots before updating the Camera to compare if anything changed in the metric..
Then in the evening now reviewing the shots of the day i discovered a DEAD Pixel on the footage, but just on the shots AFTER the update, the ones i shot before are free of it..
Whats going oooonn here? Just coincidence?
(URSAmini 4K btw..)
Cheers, Juri

Not necessarily so, depends on when the latest firmware update came out. You need to check this first. Some lenses working and others not being a "crapshoot" is illogical. Looking at Sigma site, latest,update was released,in April 2016 to,update,use,to a mount converter MC-11, next one was released in Aug 2014 to,update Canin camera support (this is probably the update you need). So a one year old lens could have shipped with this update. The lenses have been around since 2013, so no telling what the firmware is on older lenses, even if purchased recently, it could be new "old stock".
Cheers

Mucking about with new firmware. Tested out new focus assist touch and pan feature. Now I can't get any onscreen displays!?!? Like I'm permanently in "clean feed" mode.

Mucking about with new firmware. Tested out new focus assist touch and pan feature. Now I can't get any onscreen displays!?!? Like I'm permanently in "clean feed" mode.

Slide down on the touchscreen ? Juste like the Video Assist.

Mucking about with new firmware. Tested out new focus assist touch and pan feature. Now I can't get any onscreen displays!?!? Like I'm permanently in "clean feed" mode.

Have you tried swiping up/down on the screen?

EDIT: Beat me to it

Had to reset camera setting to get back on screen display.
Other than that problem I do like it. So many things can be accessed from the main screen.
Agree with others though that the focus peaking isn't nearly as strong as it was prior to 4.0

Mucking about with new firmware. Tested out new focus assist touch and pan feature. Now I can't get any onscreen displays!?!? Like I'm permanently in "clean feed" mode.

Slide down on the touchscreen ? Juste like the Video Assist.

I can get out of focus assist, by double tapping but all onscreen icons disappeared, even after restarting camera.

[CaptainHook]

I can only monitor peaking in white no matter what color I change it to.

In monitor->all change from peaking to coloured lines.

Thing is,
the 18-35mm works on fw 3.3 and it doesn't matter which Sigma fw the lens uses.
So what causes the problem? The fw of the Sigma or the beta release of the Ursa Mini?

Mucking about with new firmware. Tested out new focus assist touch and pan feature. Now I can't get any onscreen displays!?!? Like I'm permanently in "clean feed" mode.

Slide down on the touchscreen ? Juste like the Video Assist.

I can get out of focus assist, by double tapping but all onscreen icons disappeared, even after restarting camera.

Yea you need to swipe up or down. Swiping up/down hides or reveals all onscreen icons.

I can only monitor peaking in white no matter what color I change it to.

In monitor->all change from peaking to coloured lines.

ok Thank you sir!!

Maybe I'm the only one confused on that one. Thanks. I was expecting peaking to work the same way like in old firmware version

Please everybody check your sensor area for dead/hotpixels you didnd have before update!
I have one since the update..
Any suggestions??
HELP

If it was the FW 4.0 on the Ursa Mini, tha none of the Sigma 18-35s would work. Since there are as many reports of the Sigmas working (mostly newer lenses), as those not working, sounds like an interaction,change in BM FW between 3.x and 4.0. Lenses with the newer firmware seem to be working OK, so it looks like a firearm update is in order for those lenses not working, in order to rule out if this is the issue or not.
Cheers

[CaptainHook]

Please everybody check your sensor area for dead/hotpixels you didnd have before update!
I have one since the update..
Any suggestions??

If you roll back to 3.3 is it still there?

If it was the FW 4.0 on the Ursa Mini, tha none of the Sigma 18-35s would work. Since there are as many reports of the Sigmas working (mostly newer lenses), as those not working, sounds like an interaction,change in BM FW between 3.x and 4.0. Lenses with the newer firmware seem to be working OK, so it looks like a firearm update is in order for those lenses not working, in order to rule out if this is the issue or not.
Cheers

Yes, sounds like an interaction between both.

Thing is, you can update the Sigma not working anymore to find out if the old firmware is causing that problem, but what's with the Canon lenses you normally can't update like the 24-105mm or the 70-200mm IS USM f2.8? As I read I'm not the only one who has problems with not working Image stabilizers of these lenses.

I think, it may be the best to report and wait ...
That's at least what I've done.

Not to forget it's a beta release.

The Canon OIS may,we'll be a FW 4.0 update issue, since it seems universal, and worked in 3.x. My FW update suggestion was aimed more at Sigma 18-35 users. Canon lenses are another issue in their own right, which is why I stick to manual Cine lenses, no lens FW required.
Cheers

The Canon OIS may,we'll be a FW 4.0 update issue, since it seems universal, and worked in 3.x. My FW update suggestion was aimed more at Sigma 18-35 users. Canon lenses are another issue in their own right, which is why I stick to manual Cine lenses, no lens FW required.
Cheers

... and no image stabilization (

When BM did a recent update to Pocket/Micro FW, Panny zoom lenses like the 12-35 appeared to have OIS quit working. Fixed with a latter update, and was implemented so it only worked when camera was actually recording. Have you tried testing Canon OIS with camera in actual record mode, not standby? This was done to save battery whe camera was not recording. Canon OIS can eat power too.
Worth a try to see what happens.
Cheers

Mucking about with new firmware. Tested out new focus assist touch and pan feature. Now I can't get any onscreen displays!?!? Like I'm permanently in "clean feed" mode.

Slide down on the touchscreen ? Juste like the Video Assist.

I can get out of focus assist, by double tapping but all onscreen icons disappeared, even after restarting camera.

Simon, if you swipe up or down on the LCD display, everything will reappear. To quickly get a clean screen, swipe up or down. To restore the various informational displays, swipe up or down. It may be when you tap or double tap, there is some vertical movement registered so it removed the informational display.

Good point Rick, the VA screen is pickey this way too.
Cheers

Please everybody check your sensor area for dead/hotpixels you didnd have before update!
I have one since the update..
Any suggestions??

If you roll back to 3.3 is it still there?

I will check that Captain, and report about the result!

When BM did a recent update to Pocket/Micro FW, Panny zoom lenses like the 12-35 appeared to have OIS quit working. Fixed with a latter update, and was implemented so it only worked when camera was actually recording. Have you tried testing Canon OIS with camera in actual record mode, not standby? This was done to save battery whe camera was not recording. Canon OIS can eat power too.
Worth a try to see what happens.
Cheers

Yes of course, that's how I tried it. We will see what the future brings.
Thanks for your help again Denny.
Must sleep now, have a shoot tomorrow.

One question related to the Time Code Drop Frame ‘On’ or ‘Off’:

If I’m recording in NTSC land in 23.976, 29.97 or 59.94 fps, do I need to set the Time Code Drop Frame ‘On’ or leave it ‘Off’? the manual isn’t clear at least in my befuddled mind.

Two observation related to the improvements in metadata and clip names:
1) The camera name in earlier firmware releases could be several characters long, such as UM46PL as i used; now it is limited to a single character such as ‘A’.

2) The clip name included the century and year as well as month, day, hour, minute such as 2016-06-25_1613. Now the century and year have been dropped!

These changes will cause unnecessary confusion in the storage of clips in my Capture library. I had relied on the camera name such as UM46PL and UM46B4 to indicate which clips were shot with a PL lens and which were shot with a B4 lens. I can work around that by calling my camera ‘P’ for PL and ‘B’ for B4. But not having the century and year as part of the clip name is more awkward to workaround. Each year I’ll need to create a new folder ‘Capture 20xx’ so the clips will sort properly within my capture folder. And change my Resolve setting for the appropriate capture library name.

I love the 4.0 improvements that went far beyond the earlier hints we were shown. Super work! But I’d like to see the option of longer camera names and century/year returned.

What we used to call Focus Peaking and was displayed as bright green lines or even dots is no more. Focus Assist Peaking now means sharpening only in three strengths. Focus Assist Coloured Lines replaces the former Focus Peaking and also comes in three strengths and several colours.

I like the change completely. The default RED colour shows up better in my outdoor scenes which can have a lot of green in the image but not that RED. And the sharpening approach works well in some situations to demonstrate perfect focus when the Coloured lines can actually get in the way of seeing detail in your image. Having both options in multiple strengths and colours will give us a lot more flexibility once we adjust to the change and learn which setting is best for a given scene.

Steps:

1) turn on camera

2) press the Menu button to bring up the Menu

3) if you're in prores recording mode, switch to raw mode. Or vice versa... (the bug is triggered by switching recording modes while the menu is up)

4) while the menu is still displayed, press the record button to intiate. After a few seconds press again to turn recording off.

Result: The screen will turn black and nothing will happen for about 3 seconds. After 3 seconds the TC counter will start to increment, but the screen will still be black for another 2 seconds. After a total of 5 seconds, the image pops onto the screen.

5) bring up menu, switch modes (from prores to raw or vice versa) and do step #4 again.

6) repeat steps 4-5 about 5x.

70 turn off camera

Remove card, load files onto computer in their own folder, bring them up in Resolve Media page.

1) select all files in that folder

2) Right-click and select Add files to media pool.

Result: It will add the prores files, but not the raw files.

3) hand-select the raw files only and drag them into the media pool.

Result: Some of them will appear as "media offline" with red thumbnails, like this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vsfxu2nzjuh0cbx/media%20page%20screenshot%20bug.png?dl=0

Once you bring them into a timeline and look at them in the Edit page, something very odd appears. The corrupted clips (all raw files in this case) appear weirdly with "media offline" showing up in the beginning of those clips, but the rest of the clip does appear. The offline part must be from the 5 seconds after recording has been initiated.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dquwwys61tzuaqd/timeline%20screenshot%20bug.png?dl=0

Either the bug ought to be fixed so that recordings can be succesfully initiated from the Menu, or it ought to be impossible to start a recording while the menu is displayed.

I've also sent this to the 4.0 bug email address. Thanks!

-g

Agreed. I first thought that peaking was completely broken and then went through the new options and I'm with you. Like it.

What we used to call Focus Peaking and was displayed as bright green lines or even dots is no more. Focus Assist Peaking now means sharpening only in three strengths. Focus Assist Coloured Lines replaces the former Focus Peaking and also comes in three strengths and several colours.

I like the change completely. The default RED colour shows up better in my outdoor scenes which can have a lot of green in the image but not that RED. And the sharpening approach works well in some situations to demonstrate perfect focus when the Coloured lines can actually get in the way of seeing detail in your image. Having both options in multiple strengths and colours will give us a lot more flexibility once we adjust to the change and learn which setting is best for a given scene.

Funny how these cinema cameras are maturing with this upgrade. Now we have a cinema camera with Auto White Balance as an option, just like my camcorder. I never use it on the camcorder and may never use it on the URSA mini either, but its there as an option that many people requested.

The reason I don’t use AWB isn’t any kind of elitist snobbery though. It’s that the whole theory of AWB is misguided. Sometimes the results will be fine and sometimes it won’t. But even when it works as designed, it’s often not the right thing to do. Let me illustrate by looking at a tungsten interior night scene and a bright sunny summer exterior day at high noon. The theoretically correct AWB will leave a sheet of white paper looking white as Snow White in both scenes. But that doesn’t sit well with our brains that know it just isn’t right, it isn’t real, it’s artificial. You can now dial in your own Custom White Balance to get the colour of a white sheet of paper looking whatever off-shade it should be. Anything but white, please. My two cents.

Tim, I accidentally managed to record for a few seconds when I was leaving the menu, but I didn’t notice anything in the clip when I played it back in camera. I didn’t investigate further and just reformatted the card later as part of my tests so thanks for your efforts! I think it’s a bug to be able to record with the menu open or before the camera is ‘ready’ with an image displayed. Saving the menu changes and getting back to ‘ready’ will be faster when the 4.0 gold is released.

Simon, if you swipe up or down on the LCD display, everything will reappear. To quickly get a clean screen, swipe up or down. To restore the various informational displays, swipe up or down. It may be when you tap or double tap, there is some vertical movement registered so it removed the informational display.

Yup. That was it! Thanks guys. Feel a bit silly now. Never used a VA.
That said...
Great firmware update. Love it!

2) The clip name included the century and year as well as month, day, hour, minute such as 2016-06-25_1613. Now the century and year have been dropped!

These changes will cause unnecessary confusion in the storage of clips in my Capture library. I had relied on the camera name such as UM46PL and UM46B4 to indicate which clips were shot with a PL lens and which were shot with a B4 lens. I can work around that by calling my camera ‘P’ for PL and ‘B’ for B4. But not having the century and year as part of the clip name is more awkward to workaround. Each year I’ll need to create a new folder ‘Capture 20xx’ so the clips will sort properly within my capture folder. And change my Resolve setting for the appropriate capture library name.

I miss the century and year as well. However, I don't think it's going to mess up my capture library.

This is because I learned a perfect file organization system from Craig Tanner (VFX Editor of Avatar) while working for his 3D production company. We put all files into a system like so:

YEAR->PROJECT->MEDIA->RAW/PROXY->RAW-FORMAT/PROXY-FORMAT->YEAR->DATE->REEL#->FILES

Essentially I'll put my CinemaDNG Files into:

MEDIA/RAW/DNG/2016/2016-08-16/A054/

and then it's all organized systematically. If I make proxy files for editing they end up in:

MEDIA/PROXIES/PRORES-PROXY/2016/2016-08-16/A054/

and that's where all of those are referenced.

You can copy those proxies to another drive, but keep the hierarchy of the project and always be able to reconnect. The relative links aspect of the system makes it that once you reconnect one clip all others are instantly found. So moving from one drive to another is easier.

Now, when it was 3D we had LE and RE directories, and those usually ended up after the format directory, and each respective eye ended up in their correct directory.

I've been using this method for 5-6 years now without issue.

Agreed. I first thought that peaking was completely broken and then went through the new options and I'm with you. Like it.

What we used to call Focus Peaking and was displayed as bright green lines or even dots is no more. Focus Assist Peaking now means sharpening only in three strengths. Focus Assist Coloured Lines replaces the former Focus Peaking and also comes in three strengths and several colours.

I like the change completely. The default RED colour shows up better in my outdoor scenes which can have a lot of green in the image but not that RED. And the sharpening approach works well in some situations to demonstrate perfect focus when the Coloured lines can actually get in the way of seeing detail in your image. Having both options in multiple strengths and colours will give us a lot more flexibility once we adjust to the change and learn which setting is best for a given scene.

This is how Focus Peaking originally worked, the edges of,the image were highlighted, and would "pop""when focus,was correct, no lines. This is what I,few up,shooting with, and prefer. Once you get used to it, try "White" as it adds,the "pop" effect without interfering with framing and checking the shot composition, etc.
Cheers

While it is certainly good practice to have a decent folder organization, the most crucial element to prevent re-linking/round-tripping workflow headaches on projects shot over multiple years is to ensure that every single file has a unique name. Using YYYY_MM_DD_CameraID_Clip#, ensures that every clip is unique (as long as you use a unique name for each camera, of course).

It's a damn shame that BMD hasn't given us control over the file names in the same way that they have for other basic metadata like reel, scene, take, etc. Presumably, it wouldn't be that hard to implement. Why omit such a crucial control?

Having to use Automator or similar app to rename tens of thousands of DNG files after every shoot is going to be a royal pain.

Agreed. I first thought that peaking was completely broken and then went through the new options and I'm with you. Like it.

What we used to call Focus Peaking and was displayed as bright green lines or even dots is no more. Focus Assist Peaking now means sharpening only in three strengths. Focus Assist Coloured Lines replaces the former Focus Peaking and also comes in three strengths and several colours.

I like the change completely. The default RED colour shows up better in my outdoor scenes which can have a lot of green in the image but not that RED. And the sharpening approach works well in some situations to demonstrate perfect focus when the Coloured lines can actually get in the way of seeing detail in your image. Having both options in multiple strengths and colours will give us a lot more flexibility once we adjust to the change and learn which setting is best for a given scene.

This is how Focus Peaking originally worked, the edges of,the image were highlighted, and would "pop""when focus,was correct, no lines. This is what I,few up,shooting with, and prefer. Once you get used to it, try "White" as it adds,the "pop" effect without interfering with framing and checking the shot composition, etc.
Cheers

Yes. White seems to work best for me. I think they can probably tweak it so it is a little brighter in the future and thus be more useful. But man there is a lot here. These guys did a great job so far. Lots of nice little improvements. I love the swipe up and down to clear or display all the meta data.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, the "swiping" stroke works great in the Video Assit too, once you get used to it, it becomes 2nd nature.
Cheers

Norman and Denny, thanks for the suggestion. I'll give white a try. Will be interesting to play with these new variations to see which colour and technique suits which shooting situation.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Tim, my needs aren't as sophisticated and demanding as those of Avatar, but I think I can develop something that works for me based on your suggestions.

I do agree with Jaime though, that I'm much happier with having more user control so that every file will have a unique name and BMD broke this elegant simplicity on purpose to save a few characters in a name.

The workaround may have some benefits though in terms of organizing my clips. Actually I already had started to use Project as qualifier in the Capture folder name such as /Capture/Dawn Wedding/ but now I'm going to add /centuryyear/. Still thinking about the /codec/ and /camera-mount/ as well although for my needs (only have one cinema camera and a camcorder), my earlier use of 'P' standing for 'URSAMini46PL' and 'B' standing for 'URSAMini46B4' will be part of the clip name. Perhaps this simpler organization will suffice for me going forward:

/Capture
/CenturyYear
/Project
/CameraMount
/Codec
/clips

for example:
/Capture
/2016
/Dawn Wedding
/UM46B4
/B001_07101928_C070/
...DNG files...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[CaptainHook]

I find this app useful for creating templates and generating project folder structures:

https://www.digitalrebellion.com/posthaste/