Rob
I purchased a Sigma 24-105 EF for a UMP, and later realised I didn't want/need EF (was for a BMD Ursa UMP)
Changing aperture had a click sound, 'auto focus' a joke, the UMP is more a tripod camera in my view, so no need of lens stabilisation
That lens was nice on other cameras...
Their Nikon F mount was super - but only manual of course ...
I have a background as photographer with 4"x5" so manual focus is OK with me
Conversion by Sigma to Nikon F meant transfer to Japan, and price was really crazy
The Sigma ended with a friend using Canon EF
This year I bought a BMPCC4K, after some thinking, was aware of the M43 future, also about the flange advantage
I've had Nikon F since early 1980's so lots of lenses
Bought a cheap M43/Nikon F converter, no glass, no electronic
Was of course sloppy both rotation and bending as commented on the forum
I have access to a mechanical workshop so I made two aluminium pieces that fixes the converter to a SmallRig cage
Surprisingly most of the flex rotation was converter to camera, this was of course dead locked by my aluminium pieces, same with 'bending'
So lots of lenses from my Nikon F collection with good manual function
Since the camera 'knows' more than manual lenses I checked this amazing forum, and got several positives on the Olympus 12-100/4
Especially from Robert Niessner - thank you!
I bought that lens and I'm really impressed by it's quality
Think it is 'the' official lens for BMPCC4K
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Coming from still photography I'm curious of the combination of extreme wide aperture and heavy ND filters
Why complicate things
Optical quality is best if you don't introduce extra glass in front of expensive lens
Nowadays video log/raw has extreme ISO values compared to still/film era
Native log at 800 ISO
Do we really want so high native ISO?
With dual native ISO, could the lower native ISO be moved down so 'bread and butter' daylight filming don't need ND filters?
Seems stupid to me, at a live concert to use ear protection, why not reduce a bit
Same at normal daylight/sun to first improve sensor, then put a ND filter in front of lens